What did you do to your BG(part 8)

[bogaut]

finished five lug swap last week and drove it on some fun country roads

[atomicEGT]

Must be Powders. That thing is unbelievably small... Looks like an idler. I've had one for about 50k and three timing belts. The last one went at Lime Rock a few weeks back.



Do yourself a favor and have it turned down and press a big ass valve seat where the pulley meets the timing belt or that will happen. The belt just eats into the soft aluminum pulley over time and shreds it/causes it to walk. Had it it repaired once before with aluminum, this time it got the valve seat. Definitely feel the 5-6hp on the butt dyno though!

the ****, I'm not putting it on if it's gonna eat that many timing belts. I was going to use the washer from a two-piece lower for now, and then get one of those idlers with the raised lips when I do the next timing belt.

[Wtfracing]

broke a breaker bar and snapped the bolts holding the trailing arms to the car...looks like this is going to be a "Fun" next couple of days

[Mikey27]

Must be Powders. That thing is unbelievably small... Looks like an idler. I've had one for about 50k and three timing belts. The last one went at Lime Rock a few weeks back.



Do yourself a favor and have it turned down and press a big ass valve seat where the pulley meets the timing belt or that will happen. The belt just eats into the soft aluminum pulley over time and shreds it/causes it to walk. Had it it repaired once before with aluminum, this time it got the valve seat. Definitely feel the 5-6hp on the butt dyno though!

the ****, I'm not putting it on if it's gonna eat that many timing belts. I was going to use the washer from a two-piece lower for now, and then get one of those idlers with the raised lips when I do the next timing belt.

Calm down atomic, it's not that bad. As I was telling you before, the timing belt will only get eaten if it is improperly tensioned, and/or possibly with a two piece lower pulley (found on pre 99.5) which you don't have anyway. It is pretty hard to get the tension perfect, and could be impossible with a worn out tensioner/idler. The more it is out, the worse it wears. You just can get away with bad tension with the steel oem pulley, because if it rides it it won't shred it. If your belt is riding the outside edge of your cam gears right now, expect the same fate as above, but if it is running true in the middle you will be fine. Take it from me I have had experience with both powder's and ford racing, on 98 and 00. All this being said, if you need to repair a pulley that has been eaten by the belt I would suggest using the "washer" from a 98's two piece pulley, and turning the thickness of that off the pulley to keep everything in line. The reason I suggest that "washer" is because it has the correct beveled edge for the belt, and will not chew it up.

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[atomicEGT]

Word, I was planning on taking a look at the belt and whatnot before I put this on anyway, it would have been nice to just put this thing on and party. Can you buy that "washer" new in like a timing kit? Or is that something I'm going to have to scrounge for?

[atomicEGT]

Installed the JRally motor mount from the rallycross car.

This was a huge mistake. **** is coming out when I get home from work and will be for sale shortly thereafter. I dunno if it's due to the Zetec or what but the noise and vibration are SO BAD compared to the wagon.

[FE3-323]

poly is notorious for vibration translation. im personally not a fan of it. not even in suspension unless the rubber is totally SOL

[atomicEGT]

I guess it could be that the wagon makes a **** ton of noise and vibration on its own and I just never noticed, but I honestly think it has something to do with the Zetec, it feels EXACTLY like a Focus with bad motor mounts.

[FE3-323]

eek

[Georonimo]

Zetec motors are as smooth as a briggs and Stratton with bad gas. Bringing it up to 7k takes some serious getting used to. You know it's okay even thought it feels like it's seconds away from it's ultimate demise by way of piston/rod through block.

That said I've had the Jrally engine mount and energy f/r trans mount inserts for a few years and I don't even notice it. I guess I'm just accustomed to driving things that are barely more comfortable than farm tractors (low standards :-/ ).

[atomicEGT]

The E/S jams are going in the car when I get around to doing the other mounts, I had those in the old turbo GT and never noticed them so I figure they'd be okay. Considering this is my daily though and I've made it a rule to not do anything that makes it horrible to drive, this mount's gotta go... Same goes for the upper resonator delete I think, ever since I did that and the cut airbox it feels like there's a huge hole in the throttle response, which ****ing blows.

[Georonimo]

Yeah not surprised you feel that way if your other mounts are stock. I had the Energy inserts for a year or two before installing the Jrally engine mount on this car and about 4+ years on my old tracer from the nitrous fed 1.9 and 2.0 cvh engines through the turbo BP. Change shaked a bit but not to bad. The engine mount just made things a little more pronounced. Works great with the E/S trans mount inserts.
And I definitely felt a drop in low end when I did the K&N intake tube and again with the header but the gains up top make you easily forget. At least for me.

[atomicEGT]

90% of the time I drive like an old person (seriously, I shift at like 2K) so power gains up top at the expense of throttle response are not really gonna cut it.

[atomicEGT]

stock mount is back in. so much better.

[CODY004WD]

I might take the jrally off your hands.