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WOW!!! ok thanks!!! this DEF looks like something i'd like to do down the line. Guessing it has troubles clearing a particular 15" wheel means it probably won't clear 14"s...? that's all I use... not in a hurry to move up, but I guess if spending the $$ on this might as well go big!
1992 Ultra Blue Metallic EGT - The 'scort with no name - crap>reliable daily>rallycross prep>stage rally Featured in Rally Gearbox Magazine 3/1/11 "There's a hierarchy of insanity in motor sports. Normal people think all racers are crazy. Folks who race sedans think people in open-wheel cars are nuts. People who race cars of any kind think motorcycle racers are absolutely off theirs meds. But there's one group that everyone agrees is made up of the most extreme, the most daring, and absolutely craziest people in racing - rally racers."
I tried to assemble something similar to your beatiful brakes at work involving some one piece 11" rotors and some dual piston PBR calipers.
I'll give it a test fit soon. Here's some pictures of the idea.
Old 9.25" rotors from the 323.
The new 11" rotors. These will be re-drilled from 4x114 to 4x100.
PBR Dual Piston Calipers.
Assembled with pads for test fitting.
Things might get tight here with the axle.
More sizing.
I can't wait to see how it fits on the 22v spindles. Some small adapters and I'll be rocking.
I peered out from the castle window and looked over the splendor of ROTM county. Yes, twas' a much simpler time back then. Peasants would go about their postings, and I, the mod, would rule over them with an iron fist.
Well, I blew the tranny... This was at Little Talladega in Alabama. So, I only got to use the new brakes for like 5 laps , but they felt good. I was hoping to test them out later in the day since it was supposed to rain. The cold bite is way stronger than the Hawk HPS pads I was running before, but those were on the stock LX brakes. Correct on the LX prop valve.
--Ferdi
I am bringing this up from the dead, but how long did the HPS pads last you Ferdi? Mine were smoking at the end of 20 minutes and I was holding back quite a bit.
Yeah, the Hawk HPS pads didn't last at all. I don't recommend them for any sort of track driving, but I guess that's not what they were meant for anyways, even though a few people told me I would be ok on them - I guess they didn't know I had some power under the hood, lol.
I am loving these Carbotech pads though, they work great on the street with no warm up needed at all. They are a little noisy, dust a lot, and are expensive though.
I've actually been looking at getting some Hawk HPS pads. I don't do any track driving, just lots of backroads and a few autocrosses. I have the KVR carbon pads on now and as soon as they get hot they just feel like mush. I think my rotors might be glazed too though.
Yeah, the Hawk HPS pads didn't last at all. I don't recommend them for any sort of track driving, but I guess that's not what they were meant for anyways, even though a few people told me I would be ok on them - I guess they didn't know I had some power under the hood, lol.
I am loving these Carbotech pads though, they work great on the street with no warm up needed at all. They are a little noisy, dust a lot though, and are expensive though.
--Ferdi
Do they last on the track?
After a single stop for the sharp turn from 110mph on the straightaway, my brakes were pretty much done.
i thikn all you guys trying to run road courses need to build some brake cooling ducts
Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA! Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts
Yes, the Carbotech pads I am running (XP12/XP10 front/rear) are true racing pads that work well on the street. I am not the only one running these pads on the street, a bunch of Miata guys do it too. The initial bite when cold is better than the HPS pads were, but this was after I installed the big front and rear brakes.
I had no signs of fading during my last track day.
Yes, the Carbotech pads I am running (XP12/XP10 front/rear) are true racing pads that work well on the street. I am not the only one running these pads on the street, a bunch of Miata guys do it too. The initial bite when cold is better than the HPS pads were, but this was after I installed the big front and rear brakes.
I had no signs of fading during my last track day.
--Ferdi
Good to know.
I see that you are running a 225 tire as well. What offset are the wheels to clear the rear strut? (Sorry a little offtopic)
I see that you are running a 225 tire as well. What offset are the wheels to clear the rear strut? (Sorry a little offtopic)
7.5" wide rim with 34mm offset needed a 5mm spacer on the rear. Actually, only one side was rubbing and a 3mm spacer would probably have been enough. After widening the rear track to MX3 specs, the spacers were no longer needed and would have made the tires stick out too far. I slotted the strut mount holes on the body to get more negative camber and am using camber bolts to make it a little positve. Overall, the camber is still negative, but this moves the tire away from the strut body. Hopefully that makes sense.
7.5" wide rim with 34mm offset needed a 5mm spacer on the rear. Actually, only one side was rubbing and a 3mm spacer would probably have been enough. After widening the rear track to MX3 specs, the spacers were no longer needed and would have made the tires stick out too far. I slotted the strut mount holes on the body to get more negative camber and am using camber bolts to make it a little positve. Overall, the camber is still negative, but this moves the tire away from the strut body. Hopefully that makes sense.
--Ferdi
Does make sense. Seems like there's quite a bit of work involved in getting a 225 tire to fit back there.
I've never had problems with hawk pads, but I've never used the HPS, just the HP+ (PLUS). HPS to me is just another stock-type pad. The PLUS pads really hold up well at Gingerman, BlackHawk Farms, and Autobahn, with up to 30-minute sessions. Fast enough to hit the rev limiter in 4th, followed by enough braking to do 90+ deg. corners. LOTS of heat in the system. The fluid still gets too hot, and needs bleeding but the pads never seem to glaze or not have bite. I think some ducting would help things along nicely.
I'd like to try some Project Mu pads (probably the Comp-B for Gymkhana compound, for my toyota) someday. Carbotechs are on my list to try (15% discount with Midwest Council) and Porterfields are too.
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