Jeffs MSP GTR Build

[MazdaNoob]

It's a threaded stud just like an exhaust stud. Don't foresee it coming out easy tho. At least it's in an easy spot to get to.


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[vtec-this]

ok well i have not tried in a week. Im going back to work on the car tonight and will heat it with a torch and try to grab it with vice grips again.

there are no threads showing and theres less than a CM of the stud sticking out of the head, but with some good luck it might come out.

thanks for making me feel sane. I could have sworn I did this same removal before on an old EGT.

[Boosted Escort]

Just be careful with the torch and don't heat it very long.

[mx-3_4evr]

Jeff

21psi or go home! lol Do you have a mfactory LSD? what kind of clutch? Is there E85 near you? If all those are yes, than you can hit 21psi no problem on a stock BP. I did it not too long ago on a Miata and it's holding up. It's all about the tune Glad to see that you still have this car. I have a P5 myself now for my daily beating lol

-Antonio

[vtec-this]

thanks. my tune seems OK just popped that freeze plug. these things happen to egnines at 23 years i guess lol didnt have any luck with heating/removing that stud, just going to drill it out and get back to boosting.

[vtec-this]

forgot to add that the new motor started on the first crank

no freeze plugs have fallen out yet

thanks to lukas for letting me do that swap at his place and helping out, particularly with drilling / tapping the cylinder head when I snapped off a stud for the thermostat housing. A butcher like me would have botched it for sure lol

new motor seems good so far. just need to spend a few nights perfecting the tune for the minor differences between the motors. It seems as though this motor has better compression as right off the bat I noticed power in the lower part of the curve seems to be up compared to the last motor.

[jinx]

Out of curiosity, what radiator hose combo are you running with the FS radiator?

[vtec-this]

Half of each with an aluminum pipe connecting the two.

The stock hoses didnt really fit as the outlets are different sizes / locations from what I remember (i cut em over 3 years ago when I first did the swap).

So on the motor its BP hoses cut in half, then aluminum pipe in the middle, then FS hoses from pipe to rad. Worm clamps holding it all together.

[vtec-this]

now running 215/45/17 up front 205/40/17 in the rear as no amount of fending rolling seemed to truly stop the rubbing anytime I had passengers in the car and hit "whoops" in the road.

I think the rears would need to be "pulled" or "stretched" to work with my wheels and 215/45/17s (heck even the "phonebook" method probably would have worked but I could not risk exploding the rear fenders as there is so little solid metal left. its mostly just rust under the paint).

otherwise not much else has been happening with the car lately.

i redid the front lower trans mount with a fresh oem piece as my previous solid mount ejected itself during a hard 2nd and 3rd gear pull (still need a insert for a 1st gen bp fwd if anyone has one lying around).

she pulls nice but I have been in the "fwd blues" mood lately. 10 years of driving the same car everyday can do that to ya i guess.

anything else ive driven lately rwd/awd just seems like so much more fun. maybe its just nice to drive something different.

having a fast fwd car is great and all but really you cant have fun without putting your license on the line with that damn 50 over rule.

been thinking of doing a hydro rear ebrake like brianmp5t to make the winter more interesting.

also gonna try to meet up with mike moss sometime this week and grab a awr solid top trans mount to clean up the engine bay a bit and help hold things tight.

then it will be snow tire time before ya know it and hopefully spending some time sideways in the speed will brighten my mood.

winter time checklist:

0: take some fall weather pics before it snows.
1. install winter tires
2. uninstall rear sway bar
3. re install cold start valve
4. convert to warm air intake
5. either new e-brake cables or hydro ebrake conversion
6. re install splash guards
7. lube all bushings
8. new shifter bushings
9. winter mats
10. new wipers and ice scraper

[vtec-this]

[FE3-323]

sweetlord thats sexy!

[vtec-this]

dont know why I didnt think of this years ago, but does anyone know if the 1.6 or 1.8l 3rd gen crossmembers would work with the 1st gen 1.8BP motor mounts?

the 2.0 crossmember is waay off (keep in mind the 2.0 has a rear engine mount, not a rear trans mount) so I cut the 1.8BP crossmember up and made it work with the 2.0 mounting locations, but today I was thinking maybe there would be some compatibility with the 1.6 or 1.8 3rd gens crossmembers. heck maybe even a second gen crossmember.

My current crossmember/hack job is 23 years old and is rusting to pieces so I figured it might be worth a shot using a different crossmember this time after when I get around to replacing it.

Ive never been under the hood of a 2nd or 3rd gen 1.6/1.8 so I have no knowledge of them.

Any insights?

[jinx]

All the same from what I've seen in the local yards. The only xmember I've seen that resembles the BG one, is from the 96-97 mx6/FS setup. You'd have to switch the kframes to use it though since it's a two stud rear, unlike the BJ which is a single stud. Might be worth looking in to. or just get a kia trans and use that kframe mount..

[vtec-this]

problem is that KIA was never sold in canada so I would have to drive to the states to buy one. mine works, its just ugly as sin. the actual crossmember is rusting hard due to age. I figured I would make a nice one if I ever got around to the E153 but at this rate that wont happen anytime soon as my current egt trans is still in great shape.

you should make that dog bone mount setup and sell it to me so I can ditch the cross member altogether :>)

was looking at my wifes 2.3 mazda6 while i was changing the oil and it has a rear dogbone and no crossmember. it got me thinking about that one you were mocking up.

[vtec-this]

seems that either the geometry of the 1.6/2.0 oem engine mount setup is not perfect, or dorman control arms/balljoints are just complete crap (which would not surprise me as they are pretty cheap).

changed both sides not too long ago. started to notice some popping sounds and vague steering last week so i jacked up the car yesterday and found all kinds of play in the drivers side ball joint. passenger side was fine.

seems to have lots of play in the wheel assembly, i could almost pull it out with the bolt in and properly torqued. Using Mazda OEM nut/bolts to clamp the ball joint.

dont feel any sort of axle bind and everything seems lined up properly, car steered/handled great up until recently so i am going to assume the dorman control arm was just crap and replace. If it happens again I might need to look into this further.