GI: Possible cheap front big brake kit for BG

[therieldeal]

my 2000 legacy wagon has them. most late 90's+ legacy's/outbacks have them (except base model legacies), as do wrx's, etc. they differ slightly here and there so you'd have to pick a particular model/year range and stick to that design.

[Mazda_Powered]

wow i can't believe i missed this, definitely interested depending on the time frame (longer the better right now, preping for winter sucks).

Any idea on the size of rim we'll have to use? Also do you think using the stock LX caliper and pad setup would be worth the cost and trouble for running a larger rotor? Since you're having to make a bracket anyways...

I'll suggest "subaru calipers" like stated above, might be more worth while...larger pad too i believe.

JACK.

[ftjandra]

Actually, I think with the right pad choice, the DX/LX calipers would be fine. I mean, there are a lot of Miata guys tracking their cars without big brake kits.

Also, I am not sure how much of an upgrade the Suby caliper would be. Sure, it's got two pistons and most likely uses larger pads, but it's still a floating caliper. And, I've never had an issue with the stock pads wearing unevenly.

But, if that's what you guys want, I'm fine with it . It looks like the local AutoZone does have the Suby caliper in stock so I'll go pick one up tomorrow (to return later...). Nevermind, it doesn't include the bracket.

--Ferdi

[Lex]

You're probably right Ferdi - the calipers are fine with more thermal mass under them and good pads. In light of keeping costs down I vote for starting off with the stock calipers and larger rotors.

[redheddude222]

I agree with Lex. I'd like to keep my stock LX calipers, and DX spindles are easy to find. This sounds like the most reasonable/cheapest way to go.

[MD323]

im still running 323/dx knuckles, so all i need is brackets and such

[ftjandra]

Ok, I made a prototype bracket out of plastic and I am on the fence on whether I am satisfied with it or not. DX spindle and LX caliper. The DX caliper will not work because the outer bracket hits the rotor.

Everything fits so tight and you have to grind off more of the mounting ears than I initially expected. You also have to grind a little off the caliper - mainly casting marks.

I have not made the spacer for the rotor yet as it's actually a more involved piece than the bracket. I do know that with the spacer, the center hub ends up pretty much flush with the face of the rotor, so no more hubcentric rims - not that that's important anyways... I haven't measured/calculated the thickness of the spacer, but I'd install longer studs just for safety.

With the prototype bracket, the edges of the pads are flush with the rotor, but the center of the pad sticks out about 1/16". So, ideally I'd like to move the caliper in to make the center flush, but that means grinding off even more.

The spacer is 1/2" thick and I *think* that aluminum would be strong enough, but I am no mechanical engineer. Could be made out of mild steel or even stainless for more money.

Thoughts?

--Ferdi

[Lex]

Is there a way to move the rotor in at all?

I'm weary of the bolts bolting directly into an aluminum piece due to the softness. I'd much rather see steel there.

[ftjandra]

In those pics the rotor was spaced out about 0.3" If I don't use a spacer, then the bracket will have to be out of thinner material.

At first, I wanted to bolt the bolts from the rotor side, but the heads would be too tall unless I countersunk the bracket a lot. So, I decided to drill out the threaded holes in the spindle and thread the bracket and bolt it from the backside.

I could machine the bracket so that the threaded part is only about 0.25" thick. Then it wouldn't need the spacer for the rotor. But is 0.25" strong enough and enough threads?

Basically, the stock rotor has pretty much no clearance to the mounting ear. The Corrado rotor with the shallower hat makes the clearance about 0.25". So anything thicker than 0.25" will require the rotor to be spaced further out.

Yup, I will stick with my initial plan of using mild steel (or stainless).

--Ferdi

[Lex]

Crazy idea - and I am sure people have looked but is there another rotor that we can use that has a slightly higher offset?

I am not a huge fan of not having the hub support the wheel as well. Ferdi, how come you don't consider this an issue?

I am also thinking countersunk bolts would work better because the head would not need threads and offer a solid mounting area while a nut can be tightened on the back side. The threads are not directly exposed to the loads and a proper nut can be used. This also saves threading the brackets.

I am a fan of torquing these things down pretty well especially considering thermal expansion that can loosen the bracket.

[ftjandra]

No other rotor that I know of. The Corrado rotor seems to be the most common or only 11" rotor in 4x100. I guess if we include re-drilling rotors, that would open up tons more options.

I am just going by with what I have read. There are a lot of guys running around with aftermarket rims that are not hubcentric and a plastic hubcentric spacer obviously doesn't hold any load.

Flat head bolts is what I thought of as well, except they don't come in M10x1.25 - or I just haven't found any. Unless you drill out the threads and use M10x1.5 with a nut.

--Ferdi

[nerd racing]

when you come up with your materials and thicknesses and distance from the hub center I can do some quick calculations to verify that they materials will not fail.

I have a BS in Mechanical Engineering Technology, I'm no PE but I can do calcs real quick.

[ftjandra]

when you come up with your materials and thicknesses and distance from the hub center I can do some quick calculations to verify that they materials will not fail.

I have a BS in Mechanical Engineering Technology, I'm no PE but I can do calcs real quick.

How about calculating backwards? Let's say the distance from the center to the stock mounting bolts is 4" and to the new mounting bolts (on my bracket) is 4.5". What's the minimum thickness for mild and stainless steel?

--Ferdi

[Lex]

You'd need to know tensile strength, cross sectional areas, and have a good free body diagram and knowledge of forces present.

[ftjandra]

I still like the idea of using countersunk flathead bolts, but they don't seem to exist in the fine thread pitch. So, an option would be to drill out the threads in the spindle and just use a nut. It would use a 6mm allen key, so I don't know how much torque it could take before rounding off.

--Ferdi