Getting one more e12K.44

[Intruder]

Thanks man, I'll probably start working on it this weekend. I'm very busy with school right now, and I don't have a minute of time to spare.

[blue LEDz]

Thanks man, I'll probably start working on it this weekend. I'm very busy with school right now, and I don't have a minute of time to spare.

cool do me a favor and calculate the angle on that front board. i don't have my calculator up here

[Intruder]

the angles are 90 degrees, 10.61, and 79.38 (to be exact)

here's a picture

[blue LEDz]

the angles are 90 degrees, 10.61, and 79.38 (to be exact)

here's a picture

cool, thanks i don't keep my TI-86 with me

[Intruder]

cool, thanks i don't keep my TI-86 with me

Neither do I.

http://www.saltire.com/applets/triangles/tri2sia.htm

[blue LEDz]

sweet, added to favorites

[Intruder]

I went to Lowe's last night and got a 49"x97" piece of 3/4" MDF for $27.93. I got all the pieces cut there (for free), and now I have to give the sides to my brother so he can make the diagonal cuts. I'll probably cut the sub holes tomorrow using my jigsaw.

blue, I have a battery terminal that can hold one more 4 gauge wire, so I can run this along the other side of the car and connect the two 4 gauge wires using a T-style block near the amp. How does that work though? Do I need a fuse holder for each of those? Or is it wiser to start with 1/0 gauge have a fuse on it, then the distributor block splits it in two 4 gauge wires that go along each side of the car and then... condense them with another block to 1/0 gauge wire right before the amp? How?

My amp's manual says I should use a 120A fuse.

Also, according to the following chart, it's OK to use my current wiring to power the amp (4 gauge wire - 18 feet max for a 0.5V loss). Is that misleading?
Anyway, why do I need to upgrade to 1/0 gauge? Shouldn't 4 gauge be able to conduct 100amps without a problem?

[blue LEDz]

$27.93 for a sheet of MDF? i pay half that.

i'd run two 4 guage wires, so you don't have to spent a bunch on the 1/0 cable and fuse holders. you already have the 4 guage, so adding another 4 guage is the most economical.

street wires calculator.

this site breaks down the voltage loss, and how it limits the output of the amp.

[asylum24]

umm you wouldnt want to run it on the other side of the car though... run it next to the other one...the other side of the car should have the signal wires... and that would cause a lil bit of interference

[asylum24]

Hey blue, do you think you could design me a lil ported box for mine? the port has to face the front of the car and the sub opening has to face the back of the car....and then also take into account that the sub is reversed.... dont really know anything else besides to make it so it sounds better than it already does

[blue LEDz]

umm you wouldnt want to run it on the other side of the car though... run it next to the other one...the other side of the car should have the signal wires... and that would cause a lil bit of interference

actually it's become common practice to run the RCA's and power wires together now. the RCA's have evolved to reject more interference. you are more likely to get sound induced from the car's chassis than the 12V positive wire. i've heard of various people, including richard clark testing it out.

check this out for mapping ground currents.
rather than use alligator clips or test leads, you can attatch a tape player head and measure the ground currents of power wires and chassis.

as for a box, facing the port forward and the sub back could be a bad idea. around the tuned freq, all the sound comes from the port, but a bit above it, it's a blend of the sub and port. so it is possible to cause some very misaligned sound waves. they say it's nearly impossible to get cancellation in a car environment, but check this out.

[Intruder]

his subwoofer is "reversed" (iono why)


that's his box... before he "reversed" the sub.

[blue LEDz]

yeah, i know how his system is setup. when he said reversed, i believe he meant inverted, as in flipping the sub around in the box. that has to be taken into account for the volume in the box

[asylum24]

yea inverted reveresed... whatever my bad sorry im loosing my audio touch lately... too many other things on my mind... which is good cuz im not buying anything

[Intruder]

$27.93 for a sheet of MDF? i pay half that.

Where do you get that MDF? The Home Depot and Lowe's have the same prices. Actually it's cheaper at Lowe's and they don't mind doing a huge number of cuts.

i'd run two 4 guage wires, so you don't have to spent a bunch on the 1/0 cable and fuse holders. you already have the 4 guage, so adding another 4 guage is the most economical.

So, I duplicate the 4 gauge design and condense the two wires at the amp using one of those: Stinger? What about the fuses? Since the amp needs a 120amp fuse, do I split this into 2 60amp fuses for each 4 gauge wire? I will need one more AWG fuse holder, since I already have one, and 60amp AWG fuses are available.

street wires calculator.

According to the above website I have to run 1/0 gauge wire...
According to the site below I will be ok if I run a single 4 gauge wire which is good for class D amplifiers up to 1355W RIMS. My amp is capable of 1100W but I have to limit this to about 800W or else I'll blow up my subs.

this site breaks down the voltage loss, and how it limits the output of the amp.

Wire Gauge | Current Flow | Max Total Amp Power Class D (75% eff)
0 awg ------- 330 amps ------------ 3414 watts
4 awg ------- 131 amps ------------ 1355 watts

Why can't I use just what I have now, blue? I'm not trying to prove you wrong. It's just that I read those websites and the manual that I have and it looks like I'll be fine with the 4 gauge wire, and then you say use 1/0 gauge. Can you explain?