My V6 KL Swap...

[Gro Harlem]

Well I saw that downpipe you welded up....looks like unequal legnth downpipes might be to blame. The pacesetter headers available have unequal legnth downpipes like that.

The pacesetter headers for the kl have a raspy sound, while the hotshots have equal legnth primaries & downpipes. FYI any probe header fits your car (or should fit) but you will have to relocate your cat, have it custom welded further back.

& if your running a KLDE probe or mx6 ecu the redline should be 7000, fuel cutoff at 7400

It isn't a good idea to rev your engine w/out a load, you can damage it fast, although the square bore / stroke of these engines makes them rev happy as hell, and sooo ****ing smooth...might as well be a rotary lol.

[Gro Harlem]

FYI here are the headers available.

Basically you have pacesetter, bosal, and hotshot as original designs.

SSautochrome / OBX / Stone Racing (all the same company makes their headers) made knockoffs of the pacesetters (1st gen ssautochrome) out of stainless steel w/better welds. The fitment on these still sucks since the pacesetters never fit right to begin with.

They "redesigned" their headers by knocking off the hotshots. This is the design I have.


Anyways, here are some photos:

The ssautochrome pacesetter knockoffs:



And Bosal VS hotshot (the real deal, not knockoffs). The hotshot is the one with the flexpipe & uncoated. the Bosal is the one with the flanges & with the coating



My exhaust stuff, including my "OBX" knockoff hotshot headers:

[jitb37]

Well the probe headers will fit on here no problem. The cat has been removed and replaced with a resonator. soo the headers should be able to just slide right on. I had to rev it a little just for fun...it wont hurt nothin.

but from personal experience, the straight y-pipe made the biggest improvement. Even when it was on the ZE. Byut we will see wheneve ri get to the dyno.

[jitb37]

FYI here are the headers available.

Basically you have pacesetter, bosal, and hotshot as original designs.

SSautochrome / OBX / Stone Racing (all the same company makes their headers) made knockoffs of the pacesetters (1st gen ssautochrome) out of stainless steel w/better welds. The fitment on these still sucks since the pacesetters never fit right to begin with.

They "redesigned" their headers by knocking off the hotshots. This is the design I have.


Anyways, here are some photos:

The ssautochrome pacesetter knockoffs:



And Bosal VS hotshot (the real deal, not knockoffs). The hotshot is the one with the flexpipe & uncoated. the Bosal is the one with the flanges & with the coating



My exhaust stuff, including my "OBX" knockoff hotshot headers:

once i get it al lsettled and stuff i will definately have to upgrade to those. really nice setup up u got.

[92_2_fast]

I just want to make sure I have this info correct. You are using a 2.5L dohc motor with a mx3's 2.0v6 tranny. Is that correct? What wiring issues did you have with the dash, or did you even have to rewire the cluster? And did you use the mx3 wiring or from the probe?

[jitb37]

probe motor

mx3 v6 1.8 tranny

mx3 v6 engine harness

probe ECU

Didnt have to touch the dash, its all the same somewhat. The speedo gear is different, i just swapped the mx3 speedo gear in replaceemetn for the protege speedo gear, and "jammed" it int he tranny. It works but doesnt bolt in correctly. It wil lprobrably either fall out one day. But u can actually swap out the speedo gear housing only thing from the probe i used is the ecu and the motor. everything else is form the mx3.

[92_2_fast]

Thanks for the info.

[jitb37]

Update...hood closes, got the radiator and fan all in... But due to the damage to my core support from the accident i had to hack off a section out of core support. It had nothing to do with the swap, it hjad to be done in order to have the trunk close, because earlier my core support was pushed back a little bit, and i needed all the space in the bay with the v6 so i had to hack off the bent section. But normally it would go in without doing any of this...soo pay no attention to this if u are lookin into this.

but here is a quik pic i took in the garage of the hood pins, i was forced to install......they dont look too bad...i dont tihnk..i know i know its dark, forgive me..ill have more later on.

[D323]

no forgiving here.... pics or die!!!111




j/k... Sux about the rad support. Ever thought about ganking an MX-3 rad support and seeing if it fits? Then you could use the GS radiator that sits in the support, picking up those few extra spare inches.

[jitb37]

thats a good idea... HOw do i go about breakin the spot welds? Ive heard some ideas, whats the best way?

[D323]

thats a good idea... HOw do i go about breakin the spot welds? Ive heard some ideas, whats the best way?

gotta drill them out, then spot weld the new support in. Not that complicated if you have the right tools and the time.

[MD323]

gotta drill them out, then spot weld the new support in. Not that complicated if you have the right tools and the time.

just a little FYI

if you use a used core support ALWAYS add more spot welds than there is stock
good luck with the rest of the swap

[D323]

just a little FYI

if you use a used core support ALWAYS add more spot welds than there is stock
good luck with the rest of the swap

oh yea... its always a good idea to do more welds than stock whenever replacing a part like that... keep in mind though, if you go nuts and weld all over the place then hit soomething again (God forbid right?) and you have to replace it again, it will take way longer to drill it out.

[jitb37]

SO i drill holes into the welds? How big are the welds? B/c i have a 7/16 drill bit, would that be big enough? And You think an exhasut welder would be down to reweld the core support for me.? i was asking becauise i know one personally that would be willing to do it if he can...

[D323]

spot welds are usually a little larger than welds used to tack 2 piece together... you could 7/16s should be more than enough. The welder should be fine...