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i kno mazda and hondas are totally different but if a honday can make almost 300 n/a then i think mazda can make over 200 n/a
Honda's are totally different by design... the ports are too big (they make HP but no TQ) & their cams next to ours look like race spec's. No other way to make the power plainly.
OYE!!! thank you esmacmil, glad you see what im talking about
i kno hondas are different but like i said if they can make over 300n/a then im sure a mazda should be able to make over 200n/a
and besides if hondas were so ****ty then why is it that there everywhere running high hp numbers and laying down some FAST times?
im just saying that its possible to make over 200 n/a on a BP
gearing also plays a major role in this... the highest gearing ratio AFAIK that you can swap into a mazda is 4.3 from MX-3 v6's.
Stock EP's (2002 si) come with 4.7. That and short ass close ratio gears help tremendously.
If I was going to build a NA FWD vehicle it would in all probablility be a honda since there is so much more aftermarket and support.
However, boosted FWD, I wouldn't touch a honda. The stock CR are too high to boost safely (for the amount of psi I want to push) without alot of bottom end/internal work.
Show me a stock block/head Honda putting down 400whp on STOCK internals (no N2O either). You cant. Mazdas can, and have
gearing also plays a major role in this... the highest gearing ratio AFAIK that you can swap into a mazda is 4.3 from MX-3 v6's.
Stock EP's (2002 si) come with 4.7. That and short ass close ratio gears help tremendously.
If I was going to build a NA FWD vehicle it would in all probablility be a honda since there is so much more aftermarket and support.
However, boosted FWD, I wouldn't touch a honda. The stock CR are too high to boost safely (for the amount of psi I want to push) without alot of bottom end/internal work.
Show me a stock block/head Honda putting down 400whp on STOCK internals (no N2O either). You cant. Mazdas can, and have
hate to bust ur bobble but ric @RM has boosted a 2000si with a stock internal H22 street tune running a 11.4@132 @23psi 2800lbs turbo size a SC67-69
92 Mazda MX-3 (2120lbs) (12.4@118@18psi)1.8 DOHC ,Eletromotive TEC II Standalone System, Turbo Ric Project Turbo Kit, Custom intake manifold 80MM Mustang TB, PT67 P-TRIM TURBO, Custom turbo manifold, 3 in. down pipe, Innovate wideband, 1000cc RC Injecters,walbro 255, custom fuel rail, Areomotive FPR, MSD wires, NGK V-Power R5671A-8 plugs, 31 1/2" L x 10 5/8" H x 3 1/2" D Percision Turbo 750HP FMIC , 2.5in intercooler piping, Tial wastegate/BOV, Unrothdox UDP, KIA G-series trans, ACT 6 puck extreme clutch,(Need a twin disc) 30psi guage&10,000RPM tach (autometer)(EQUUS guages), NO I DON'T HAVE A BPT I HAVE A REUGLAR BP-DE. (updated)
With Drag radials your 60 footer still blows dude..I cut a 2.19 60 footer with regular es100's....If you can get a better 60 you will be deep in the 14's.Still good job though.
i wouldnt be so rude as to say they blow but considering i was pulling the same 60' times with crappy crappy crappy 2 yr old all seasons... maybe try launching at a lower rpm i have no experience with drag radials but i would imagin they should hook up better than my tires did
i havent read beyond the first page so i apologise if i am beating a dead horse.
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