Mobile 1 synthetic overview.

[D323]

Thank you D323 I was about to post the same thing.

NP, I am here to correct the info out there to the best of my knowledge.

[whistler]

Right now, I am using Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic (for engines above 150K), and I have no problems. But I still change my oil every 3-3.5k.

If I wanted to do longer interval oil changes, can I use the V6 oil filter and be merry? right now, i use the Purolator oil filter.

[Lex]

The thing is that although the oil may not break down as easily if it is synthetic, contaminants and "dirt" still builds up so really long intervals are not always the best thing

[D323]

The thing is that although the oil may not break down as easily if it is synthetic, contaminants and "dirt" still builds up so really long intervals are not always the best thing

correct, but if full synthetic is not run over 4k, it is not given a chance to fully break down and coat the engine parts and reducing wear to the best of its ability. Every car will be different, so finding the happy medium is what you need to do.

You might research the term Corvette filter somewhat... I seem to remember somewhere that Will found out that you could swap a corvette filter on there. No clue about part numbers, or year models or anything.

[whistler]

Im thinking using a v6 filter should be plenty enough to run the oil for over 4k mileage, since it can filter crap for longer.

[D323]

Im thinking using a v6 filter should be plenty enough to run the oil for over 4k mileage, since it can filter crap for longer.

Same brands/makes of filters that are of different sizes are not going to filter crap for longer. It will filter a larger volume of oil, but with the larger volume of oil comes larger amounts of crap. This makes for roughly the same service life between the 2 sizes.


The composition of the filter is whats most important... I believe that I posted a few links to the oil filter study in this thread... if not search for "oil filter" under my name, and you should find the links I have posted in the past.... they discuss the makes and what makes for a better filter.

[gtx510]

Want my 2 cents?
Stay way from Fram and the new E-core (AC Delco?) filters.
I prefer Purolator Pure-One filters. PL14459, or the larger PL24458 (discontinued and tough to find). Or you can get the filter for a ZR-1 vette which is PL14619 and it's HUGE. Wix/Hastings (NAPA/Carquest), STP, Bosch (they're getting better), and regular Purolator filters are pretty good. Supertech (ST) from Walmart are decent. Motorcraft is a great filter for the price if you can find one that fits. And Amsoil just came out with they're new EA filters which are supposed to be excellent. K&N is the same as Mobil1 but with the K&N more biased towards flow and the M1 more towards filtration.

Amsoil's EA or AEM's Dryflow air filters are worth looking at.

And so is "GC" (German Castrol Syntec) 0W30 from Autozone (only some stores carry it). It's a nice thick 30wt, almost a 40wt actually, and a full synthetic unlike most Syntec. FWIW, M1 10W30 is almost a 20wt and M1 5W30 is thicker than M1 10W30 when warm. Maxlife Synthetic is supposed to be good stuff too, I'd use it over Pennzoil or Quaker State synthetic, probably over M1. I'm not so impressed with M1 anymore, I find it overpriced and a bit noiser than other oils. Comparing M1 0W40 to GC 0W30, GC wins hands down. If you can find the older M02-M05 GC (made from 2002-05) it'll be green oil and has even more additives, it's the REALLY good stuff.

And lately I've been quite impressed with Liqui-Moly. Engine oil, gear oil, additives... www.auto-rx.com and www.lubecontrol.com stuff too.

https://www.interautopartssd.com/liquimoly.php

https://www.liqui-moly.de

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...;f=51;t=000934 GC FAQ
http://home.comcast.net/~dsmphotos/gcdc.html Pics

[Lex]

correct, but if full synthetic is not run over 4k, it is not given a chance to fully break down and coat the engine parts and reducing wear to the best of its ability. Every car will be different, so finding the happy medium is what you need to do.

You might research the term Corvette filter somewhat... I seem to remember somewhere that Will found out that you could swap a corvette filter on there. No clue about part numbers, or year models or anything.

You mean over 4k miles I assume? How long should I run the same oil in my GTX motor then if I use Mobil1?

[D323]

You mean over 4k miles I assume? How long should I run the same oil in my GTX motor then if I use Mobil1?

Correct.

I was doing 9k intervals on the 323 before I bought the P5.

On the P5 I run anywhere between 7 and 8 thousand miles. Its also based on climate as well.... if you live in a hotter southern region such as myself, thicker weighted oil should be used and probably changed closer to the ~6,000 mile mark rather than the 7 to 8 as previously posted.

With the use of thinner oils, they tend to break down a little bit quicker than the thicker ones, this becomes extremely evident in warmer climates.

Talk to Kyle (KiddX) he discussed this before and mentioned that he was going to run up to 9k miles on his GTX motor in his infiniti. AFAIK he has been doing so without any issues for the past year and a half or so.

[gtx510]

It'd depend on the weight of the oil. Honestly I wouldn't run 7-8k on M1 10W30 but I might on the 5W30.
And I would have no problem doing that with M1 0W40 or 5W40. This is assuming a non-turbo engine...


In my GTX I used to run M1 15W50 "redcap", it was a thin 50wt that thinned down to a 40wt. 4-5k OCI (Oil Change Interval).
You can't get it anymore and I don't like the new M1 EP oils with their high sulfated ash %.
I wouldn't run M1 xW30 in a turbo car. I've done it but I wouldn't do it again. In fact GC might be one of the only 30wt's that I'd use.
I live in socal... A xW30 might be okay for some people, but I wouldn't run it past 5-6k. And I'd use M1 5W30 (T&S or maybe EP), not the 10W30.


For turbo engines I'd look for a xW40 synthetic oil that was ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, A5/B5 or C3 rated. GC is, and it's almost a 40wt.
ACEA specs defined.
This site explains the ACEA specs a little better. A1/B1 would be enough for a non-turbo.

The American API SM/SL or CI-4 don't really apply like the European ACEA specs do.
FWIW, the newer SM oils have less zinc and phosphorus and are supposed to be easier on catalytic convertors.
The older SL oils should protect more.


Mercedes Benz 229.1 or VW 501, 502, 505, or 506 oils are also good for turbo engines.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/vw_tb_17-05-04.pdf

And if you really wanted to run extended OCI's look for an oil that's MB 229.5 (or 229.51) or BMW LL-98, LL-01, or LL-04 rated.
GC...

http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html

Note: Most of these oils are European and are not the same as what we get in the states.
Check the back of the bottle for a A3/B3, A5/B5, BMW, MB, and/or VW rating.


Another way to lengthen your OCI would be to use SLOB, VSOT, and/or LC20.
I don't think I'd mix SLOB and VSOT.
They make a crappy oil good, a good oil great, and you should be able to extend your OCI by about 1.5-2 times.


SLOB (CD-2 Street Legal Oil Booster) is usually $0.50-1.50 at Biglots (if they have it).
It'll more of less double the ZDDP (zinc and phosphorus) and calcium in your oil, these are anti-wear, anti-friction additives (and calcium cleans too). BITOGer's love it. I wouldn't use it in a car that was burning oil as it could harm a catalytic convertor and might form ash deposits in the chamber. Great stuff for the price. Stock up.
SLOB VOA


VSOT (Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment) is about $4-5 from Pepboys, I haven't really seen it anywhere else. A pic is tough to kind, but it's a little gold bottle. It's got a bunch of moly (another anti-wear/anti-friction additive) and a fair amount of everything else, but not nearly at much as SLOB. Another way to get moly is to run Havoline oil.
VSOT VOA



Liqui-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction Additive is another one.

http://www.liqui-moly.de/

http://www.interautopartssd.com/liquimoly.php

Specialty Formulation's SX-UP - Synthetic Multiple Anti-Wear Oil Supplement should be another good one.


LubeControl LC20 can also extend you OCI. Some people run 10k OCI's on dino oil with LC20. But I'd get a UOA before trying that.


I'd also rec'd some Auto-RX with dino oil. It's made of lanolin esters and fatty acids, and will clean the inside of your engine.
It can unstick bad lifters and rings and it conditions seals/gaskets (esters cause rubber to swell).
Also works in trannies, diffs, and power steering systems. BITOG thinks it's great stuff.

[BuGS]

Dang I have been using M1 10w30 thinking it was thicker than 5w30....


Has anyone heard anything about Redline Motor oil?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=22255&parentCategoryId=10461

jegs has it for like $8 a quart.

[Jho]

Dang I have been using M1 10w30 thinking it was thicker than 5w30....


Has anyone heard anything about Redline Motor oil?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=22255&parentCategoryId=10461

jegs has it for like $8 a quart.

I've heard it's good ****.

I know their MTF is great.

[gtx510]

Redline IS good ****. To be more descriptive it's a GrpV (ester-based = cleans well) synthetic with a STRONG additive package that includes a hefty dose of moly. There's so much additives that I think some BITOGer's are using RL as an "additive" and mix 1qt RL with 3-4qts of another oil. Straight it should be good for extended drain intervals but I'd use UOA's to determine the OCI. RL also rec'ds not using their xW50 or xW60 oils unless you are regularly seeing oil temps over 225F (most cars don't). I'd use the the 10W40 or 5W40 in a turbo car. And the 5W30 or 10W30 in a non-turbo.

Redline oil specs

I think the race oil has even more additives and some BITOGer's might be using that as an "additive"?
Redline race oil specs


For dino oils Havoline, Chevron Supreme (not Delo), and Motorcraft oils all have a nice amount of moly.
And if you want a cheap GrpIII "synthetic" look for Shell Rotella 5W40 (HDEO) or Supertech "synthetic" oil at Walmart. TropArtic and Motorcraft are good "budget" WM oils. And the only WM oils I'd put into a turbo engine would be Delvac, Delo,or Rotella 15W40, Rotella 5W40, or M1 15W50 EP.


What other oil questions do you guys have?

[Lex]

What kind of oil temps would a GTX motor seeing 250+whp have? EGTs are never over 1250 right after the turbo.

[FE3-323]

i use rotella ATM