DeeAOne's BF KLDE Swap.

[concealer404]

Give South Bend a call. They'll either suggest the TZ Stage 2 or the DXD for your setup. Prices are fair, and they're great guys to work with.

[FE3-323]

just go with good material & a decent pound pressure plate

[DuRWooD]

I used an MX3 flywheel and put a new oem MX6 clutch kit on my ZE Protege. I put maybe 40000km on it with no issues, decent pedal feel. My car was heavier too.

[Ace]

Mine lasted about 15k-20k. I'm going name brand this time. Lol

when it comes to clutches you get what you pay for. I don't trust ebay clutches at all, I don't see the point it spending a little less money for all the labor involved you might as well spend a bit more and KNOW it's gonna hold. I've got like 1300 miles on my spec 2+ so far and it's awesome. I love to feel of it, the pedal isn't very hard but it grabs hard. I just resurfaced the stock flywheel too.

[DeeAOne]

Give South Bend a call. They'll either suggest the TZ Stage 2 or the DXD for your setup. Prices are fair, and they're great guys to work with.

Hmm, never heard of them. Thanks.

when it comes to clutches you get what you pay for. I don't trust ebay clutches at all, I don't see the point it spending a little less money for all the labor involved you might as well spend a bit more and KNOW it's gonna hold. I've got like 1300 miles on my spec 2+ so far and it's awesome. I love to feel of it, the pedal isn't very hard but it grabs hard. I just resurfaced the stock flywheel too.

Yeah. I dont even want a stock flywheel though. lol. Fidanza 9lb most likely.

[crazycanadian]

South Bend is a big clutch a lot of truck guys use and swear by... I have installed a few of their clutches on some beefed up diesel trucks.. they work really well.. never tryed them for car applications though...

[Mazda_Powered]

when it comes to clutches you get what you pay for. I don't trust ebay clutches at all, I don't see the point it spending a little less money for all the labor involved you might as well spend a bit more and KNOW it's gonna hold. I've got like 1300 miles on my spec 2+ so far and it's awesome. I love to feel of it, the pedal isn't very hard but it grabs hard. I just resurfaced the stock flywheel too.

I've had nothing but good results from the F1 racing "ebay" clutches, although technically they do have their own store and website lol. Technically they did not originate from ebay.

they use Competition Clutches for their 6 puck clutches. At least they use to, because my first clutch back 5yrs ago from F1 racing was Competition Clutch, and retailed for $400 and I paid $210 shipped to Canada.

So with that in mind, you do get what you pay for...a hell of a deal

[The Pile]

im running a southbend tz in my mx3.... it always grabbed really good, took it to the track and it started slipping after hot lapping about 25 times... but after I let it cool down....HOLY **** that ****er grabs nasty hard now... annihilates 3rd gear... go with the TZ

[concealer404]

The TZ is not the best choice for drag racing, but how often do you get to make 25 passes in hot lap format at the drag strip?

The reason why it start slipping is because it's a Kevlar clutch, doesn't deal with heat very well. It does NOT like to be slipped, which is exactly what you need to do to get a good launch on a FWD car from a stop. However, once you're already moving, it'll grab fast, and HARD through the rest of your drive.

I'm going with the TZ for my application for that reason.

If you're going to be doing a LOT of drag racing (or dig racing, whatever), get a DXD. Otherwise, the TZ is a great choice. If you're going to continue doing roll racing, TZ.

[Mr N4SA]

For what it's worth:
My friends got a turbo setup that makes about 500Hp, and they prefer to use custom made copper button clutches. The company that they use specializes in truck clutches like mentioned elsewhere in this thread.

A other friend of mine also use a custom made copper button clutch on his 200kw (268Hp) NA rotary powered F1000 truck. He is currently on ±40 000 km (25000 miles) and no problems yet, and believe me, he really gives his vehicle some stick.

[DeeAOne]

Good news I think!

I noticed that the clutch was only slipping bad when it was very hot outside. Hot temperatures made the underhood temps shoot up of course, and the clutch line really hot as well. I think this caused the fluid to expand just enough to make it slip(master cylinder even at rest was close to having the clutch engaged) So I put a shorter bolt in back of the master cylinder, and so far it has stopped slipping all together.

It didn't slip yesterday evening, but I'm waiting until the hottest part of the day to test it again. Hope it works.

I hope I didn't confuse you guys. lol

And in other good news, I ran an NSX last week. You can guess who won.
I know they aren't super fast, but $1500 323 > $30000 NSX is a nice thought. lol

[FE3-323]

excellent find!!! explain more about this bolt in the master cylinder

[monoxidechild]

southbend clutch ftw! my fully built boosted FE3 has been running there OFE for over 5 years. and ive ran everything from there Rally clutch, to there TZ, and have never had any issue, and has been the best clutch's ive ever ran. and if its a mazda, i wouldnt even think of going with a different brand.

ive owned so many cars, ive pretty much ran every brand you can think of though. act, and centerforce clutch's are pretty good and have treated me well. but id still choose the southbend clutch above them now.

the only clutch ive ever had fail was Spec. and it failed horribly right off the bat. then they made me send it in to make sure it was there fault. well it was. so they replaced it for me. well the 2nd Spec slipped right from the install. that 2nd Spec never saw more then 1/4 pedal cause it would just start slipping. SPec clutch is the only failure ive ever had. and it happened twice.. thats a ****ty ass product. i ended up replacing the spec with a southbend stage 1, and never had an issue again. id trust a OEM replacement before id install a spec in any of my cars again.

[DeeAOne]

Maybe the picture will help.



The back of the cylinder, where the rod would go that connects to the pedal and pushes in that plunger when you hit the clutch pedal, I had a really long bolt in it that when I pushed the pedal, it pushes the plunger in, in the cylinder. It's ghetto I know, but it works great. lol

Anyway I think the whole time the bolt was just a little bit too long, because even when the pedal was in resting position the plunger was already pushed in about halfway. I found a shorter bolt, and walah, no issues yet.

[Mazda_Powered]

Yep, having your clutch m/c engaged when the pedal is at rest will give you issues lol. Glad you figured it out!