Vj20 for now. I will look at your post to see if I recognize it.
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The Project 1988 323 gtx
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#4 i think is the one you'll recognize.
1988 White GTX - #1 parts
1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car
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Originally posted by structureboy View PostRegrettably i was not able to. With the intercooler set up as well as the bumper there was not enough space. Right now it is set for tarmac. I am throwing on the stock rims for winter. Next summer i plan on doing some auto x.
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From what i have heard, the water on the floor is a bad idea because it creates too much humidity and effects the quality of the coat. However, i don't claim to be professional and could be wrong ha. I still need to wet sand and i ended up using a two part urethane paint that includes the base color as well as the clear. (single stage paint)Sean
1988 Mazda 323 gtx
1.8 bp-t swap
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Yes it can affect a little bit the finish, but it's way better than having a lot of dust in the paint..... Btw it is not recommended to sand and polish urethane paint with metallic in it.... It's doable but very difficult because when you sand the paint you are also sanding the metallic and therefore changing it's reflective properties ....
I am a Bodyman and I know what I'm talking about
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in the worst case, try sanding it a little in a place that is hided to see how its getting when sanded and buffed.... if it looks ok, then do it.... i'm not saying you can't do it.... it can be done.... but testing is required...
if there no mettalic in the paint, go for the sanding..... yes it's supposed to be written on the can like "5% mettalic" or something like that... but just look at your paint and you should see it.... it's though to say with the pictures you posted....Last edited by anduril; 10-24-2010, 09:59 PM.
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