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    #16
    Ahh good idea. Why didn't I think of that?! Now I just have to find some M9 nuts haha.

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      #17
      Originally posted by jay View Post
      2 nuts tightened together on the stud and then just unscrew 'em.
      Success at NAPA. The guys at the desk weren't sure what to give me, so I had a look around the store and found this assembly. PN#605-1347 is a water pump stud kit that comes with Grade 8 studs, lock washers, and nuts. Presumably it's for some type of old V8 or domestic or something... who knows and who cares. They're M8x1.25 and a perfect fit into my open holes.




      Now it's just a matter of getting a garage to remove those old studs and getting everything sandblasted before putting it all together! Unless there's a way I could remove the studs myself. I don't have acetylene torches or high heat equipment though unfortunately! Those old studs wouldn't come out with the double nut method and penetrating oil and a pipe wrench seems futile and barbaric. The threads seem oddball and damaged as my M9x1.25 die is a bit loose and the M8x1.25 die doesn't fit on it at all. Best get em out and have all four shiny and matching to hold onto the turbo better!

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        #18
        Go down to Sears and get a stud remover. It works with a ratchet wrench....simple.

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          #19
          Sounds great. I will certainly do that in order to banish the bad threads and get a solid seal! I look forward to owning another useful tool. Who knows... might need it to get some exhaust manifold / intake manifold studs out too!

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            #20
            Third one came out... fourth one snapped. It's at the machine shop getting drilled out and re-tapped. My attempts to drill grade 8 exhaust bolts failed miserably.

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              #21
              I don't like those fasteners in an exhaust manifold. The plated finish can do poorly in high heat, either coming loose or welding the nut to the stud. I prefer black oxide for this application. For street driving you might be just fine though. I'd at least put a wrench on whatever of those nuts you can get at a month or so after it's back on the road, just to be sure they're staying put.
              '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
              '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
              http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
              http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

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                #22
                Originally posted by jay View Post
                I don't like those fasteners in an exhaust manifold. The plated finish can do poorly in high heat, either coming loose or welding the nut to the stud. I prefer black oxide for this application. For street driving you might be just fine though. I'd at least put a wrench on whatever of those nuts you can get at a month or so after it's back on the road, just to be sure they're staying put.
                Good to know! If I come across some cheap black oxide studs from Fastenal, I'll scoop them up for sure. I might need at least one that is slightly longer too.

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                  #23
                  9. I'm going to replace my downpipe with a 2.5" unit shortly with a new flex pipe, but for now, what can I shove between my control arm brace and turbo down-pipe to stop it from rattling every time I launch and shift? I need something high heat, static, and rattle-reducing.

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