My FE3 progress thread

[nerd racing]

^ i believe your overly concerned.... i have managed a good inch+ to the manifold
short of that, no half sized radiator will cool this motor. theres just not enough compacity or surface area to cool the liquid without a fan continuously running & even then its risky

There's no denying that an aluminum block will dissipate more heat.

it all boils down to preference... (pun intended) I'm running a half sized 2 core aluminum radiator and my fan only runs when I get done thruway driving and am idling in the city. Even then it cycles twice and that's about all it needs. It is also covered partially by the radiator support. A 3 core would probably be better suited for the larger engine application that you are running though.

[Mazda_Powered]

Ya looked like a bit more room than 1/4" lol, I don't see there being any issues...I think your external wastegate setup was closer to the rad than this setup.

Only way I'd run a civic half rad is if I sat down and punched some numbers for volume comparing the stock BP rad (single and dual) vs the dual and 3 core civic rads.

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

Find (or build) a rad small enough to fit under the rad support and put dual fans and a god mighty custom shroud. Have one fan kick on low @ 190 (or what ever temp you wanted) and the other @ 205 (or whatever temp you wanted). I think 225 is the danger point in these engines?

Sounds like it would do the trick to me. Shoudn't be all that complicated and def shouldn't cause any interference with the manifold or the fmic and still have a full sized rad.

[Mazda_Powered]

That'd be the ideal rad for me, under the rad support, dual fans with a variable power source to them, so at 180* they'll start spinning slowly and spin faster as the temps rise...no shock on your electrical system either that way.

[wgnths]

Im running a civic half radiator and Im thinking to put a pusher fan on it in addition to the puller I have. Maybe that might be ideal??

[FE3-323]

a couple changes.............

Packed up the roll cage & brought it to the 323.
Also traded my last "cut intake manifold" for a box of 3" aluminum piping

Installed the rear trailing arms- by which are an utter cunt to install - almost appears to be too much preload

since there was a severe discrepency in the axles--- drivers being too
far over & passenger side almost pulled completely out of its cup... there became a need to shift everything over.

the K frame was tweaked due to welding it out of the car & without proper bracing across the LCA points. i figured the lower tie bar would suffice but i was seriously mistaken.

so onto the 2nd subframe. near identical mods but less extreme on the drivers side. 1" bar steel welded across both LCA points.

all but the rear mount have been re modified/ increased the slot available in order to slide it over ~20-25mm/1"
belt side mount still needs to be slotted more & then filled where the old slot is no longer needed- along with the other mounts as well.

bunch of misc pictures.

[mx-3_4evr]

Cool, but it's facing the wrong way lol!

[FE3-323]

what antonio??

[nerd racing]

RWD = right way

[FE3-323]

lol you guys are funny. i'll stick to AWD tho it will be FWD for awhile yet

[DuRWooD]

Nice update. I want an FE3 so bad.

[Georonimo]

Man that looks like fun.....

It'll all be worth it in the end! (It better) :-)

I'm about to dig into my fitment project as early as tomorrow so soon we can commiserate! Lol

And since you're down there... What's stopping that whole subframe from going up an inch in the body?

Keep up the good work! This is inspiring!

[FE3-323]

raising the subframe creates a significant problem with the position of the axles. both now & in the future E153 swap(moreso with the toyota trans)

[mx-3_4evr]

I'm guessing you lost some front space there since you had to move the engine forward. Does you massive turbo still fit there?

[FE3-323]

decided today that the previous bracing wasn't quite enough.......... so i added more

started cutting out pieces to fit in the trimmed out areas.