My FE3 progress thread

[frogi323]

come on mr guru!!! fix it already!!

lol jk man . hope the injectors fix the issue.

[FE3-323]

Waterpump /Timing belt kit/ Oil pump(main seal) all replaced.
Waterpump had been sitting for quite some time as can be visually seen. didn't leak through the weep holes just a ****ty gasket seal because the bolts were hardly tight........
Notice replacement grade 10.9 bolts so the assembly can afford to see some actual tighten'd TQ figures as opposed to previous



























radiator was Re-repaired (hopefully there isn't any issues this round. the place said its been 9 years since he saw the glue type stuff crack like it did. Bad batches occasionally happen

Have the injector harness reloomed with fresh wire need to pickup more electical tape & get the hopefully temp replacement injectors put in:
See thread

[FE3-323]

Well... Tossed in the other injectors. & replaced the previously brand new vaccum hose which looked as if it deteriorated within just a few weeks of sitting (craptastic quality)







Car runs smooth without misfiring so the injectors were an issue...... but still idle surges

Which tonight im pretty sure i figured out why it idle surges.
As pictured the main portion which feeds to the wax valve is free venting into the intake plenum instead of a small bleed as the OEM BP system was setup. When the coolant gets warm enough the wax valve opens & fully feeds the intake through that passage as any other.
(At least thats potentially how it works)

my idea includes basically closing off the wax valve feed & letting the IAC function properly in bleeding the air.
since i have 2 throttle bodies now im going to weld on & see what happens- as of now its just an idea. hoping it leads somewhere positive.

[jesiotrot]

I vote you first make a flat piece of aluminum plate to cover where the IAC bolts on. Then try to run it, see if it fixes the problem.

[Racerboy]

[FE3-323]

thats a pretty good call jesse. i'll dig through my AL scrap & see what i can make up

[SgtRauksauff]

+10K. That's what I did on my AE86 to fix it's stupid-high idle. In the Toyota, while the coolant is cold, the air goes through and raises the idle. As the wax heats up and expands, it shuts down the passage, until it's only through the main TB ports. Something in my wax valve was broken, so I just took a piece of aluminum flat stock, made a template out of cardboard for the IACV, then used some Toyota FIPG to seal it to the bottom of the TB. I now have to give it a high idle manually for the first 30 seconds of starting, but it does not idle super-high like it did before (2200rpm). I've got a different idle problem now (TB shaft/plate/throat is worn and allowing more air) but I had it idling rock solid at 950rpm when I first fixed things.

[FE3-323]

Installed LED maplights!!

trimming up the plastic surround slightly is required***
in order to prevent the sockets from being pushed away from on center w the light distribution discs
its kind of a silly design OEM. but never the less it works.
You can see the heat damage from normal bulbs.......

Bulb socket # BA9S

bought them from this Ebay auction:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/260996338596?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Ebay seller:

http://myworld.ebay.com/premiumled/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

[Mazda_Powered]

awesome!!! glad it doesn't missfire, and it sounds like you found your idle problem!!!

[FE3-323]

Got My valve cover sorted out today. Im having the NPT bung welded tomorrow(intake side).
Then shipping it to Carlos (cee1481) in south florida for powdercoating!!










Also Got some more goodies in todays mail....... Freebies to whomever can guess correctly (see thread below)
Play to win!!<<<<<<<<<< Thread here

[The Pile]

looks nice! i need to have some bungs welded onto my valve covers as well...

[FE3-323]

Radiator updates

Heres progress with the new radiator....





































Needless to say- the old one is going into the scrap bin

[FE3-323]

Rear hatch light 16x 5050 SMD LED's

bought this little sucker off ebay- pictures don't do justice to capture the light output- but my god
going from no hatch lighting whatsoever to this is seriously dramatic.







If you want one get it here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110698728355?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

[Mazda_Powered]

cool AND bright! Love it!

new rad is awesome though, wasn't expecting you to cut the inlet/outlet off lol, bold move! worked out well though

[FE3-323]

Radiator is installed!!
mounted via 3 locations:
2 on the bottom utilizing the existing A/C condensor lower mounts.
1 on the transmission end. front side utilizing the existing A/C condensor upper mount.

I must say it is quite solid as it sits.

I did have to modify the core support @ the hood latch area & modify the hood latch support bracket in order to retain the center grill mounts.
Neither are shining spectacles of wonder- It works for now...

I can fit my hand between the turbo now with room to spare on each side
























Also got a Free 3" flowmaster muffler deltaflow® 40 series
an upgrade from the current 2.5" one of the same^^^

problem was it had a center inlet (previous owner apparently couldn't read either) they installed it backwards & removed it shortly after because they didn't like the way it sounded
I cut off the previous inlet & shifted it offcenter to use on the 323. Plated off the center region & threw a V-band on it for ease of removal down the line.







Before actually fililng the radiator i decided in the best interest of things to flush the coolant system with the garden hose......
Some ungodly strange chunks of unknown came out of the block
almost looked like RE-hydrated cat puke in strings or soggy cheeto's
glad thats not going into my minty fresh new radiator