And so it begins....323BG hatch ----> V6 powa with a few extra surprises

[Dan [Sac]]

The valve covers were powdercoated wrinkle black. I was thinking about polishing the 'mazda' part of it, but I'll skip that for now. I like the lower profile look, as I don't want too much bling under the hood. Just a simple motif that's clean will do for me.

[TheOnenOnly]

too much bling?? lol ok boss =] still it looks great

[Dan [Sac]]

My connectors came in for the radiator lines. A few 1.5" humps and a reducer. Should make for a sturdy connection there. The lines themselves will be 1.5" OD mild steel.






Also dropped the engine in again. This time I'll hook it all up all the way to start. Lots of things to do there, if it runs and runs right, then I'll do the wire tuck, then fire it up again to make sure I didn't fubar anything in the process...then it all comes back off to finish the bodywork and paint, but at that point all the engine fab will be complete so post paint it will be a simple bolt-on affair.

[MainstreaM]

I would suggest aluminum for the radiator lines. You have an aluminum engine and aluminum radiator, so aluminum lines would reduce the amount of electrolysis that can take place. Electrolysis creates pitting corrosion, which is a bad thing. FYI

Kane

[Dan [Sac]]

The pipes will be coated inside and out.

[93BlkOnGreenPro]

That would make for a really nice Christmas present. I'll pm you my address. :-)

[TheOnenOnly]

dam it looks so sexy just sittin in there

[Dan [Sac]]

Mocked up the water line (welding tomorrow).

The fitment is nuts, I have a quarter inch of space between the front of the engine and the water pipe, and another quarter inch to the headlight (on the right side).

The only thing I don't like is that top line isn't parallel to the upper radiator support/engine. It just doesn't look right visually...so I'll probably add a tight 'S' section at the radiator neck to allow the pipe to stay parallel. Right now it's not possible due to the radiator inlet sticking out into the engine bay, and I can't move the radiator any more forward (I have 1/16" of clearance to the grill).
































And picked up some new brake hardware as well...

[Henchman]

This is probably one of the sickest builds ever, I really should stop by sometime since you're only like 45mins away from me lol.

[Damkid]

Looking very very Sexy!!!!

[IMACHU2]

Hey Dan what brand are the rad hoses? (the rubber-ish parts). Very Klean lookin' rad hose execution by the way.

[Kris]

just wow.

[goodorange]

Mocked up the water line (welding tomorrow).

The only thing I don't like is that top line isn't parallel to the upper radiator support/engine. It just doesn't look right visually...so I'll probably add a tight 'S' section at the radiator neck to allow the pipe to stay parallel. Right now it's not possible due to the radiator inlet sticking out into the engine bay, and I can't move the radiator any more forward (I have 1/16" of clearance to the grill).

I see what you mean, the slope of that pipe bothers my personal OCD. that's gotta be a really tight s turn but will definately make the difference.

[Dan [Sac]]

Hey Dan what brand are the rad hoses? (the rubber-ish parts). Very Klean lookin' rad hose execution by the way.

They're from www.frozenboost.com (or siliconeintakes.com), they have a wide range of hump hoses, as well as 90- and 45-degree couplers, reducers, and adapters. Prices are good, and they offer t-clamps for everything, it's where I got the stuff for my turbo Probe too.

[white-lightning]

Nice job. I like your cooling system set-up, never thought about doing it that way.