GB: Tubular LCA's

[JPmotorsports]

Matt couldn't you just lift the swaybar up away from the arm to put the link on? If it was loose on the other side the swaybar should be able to move up several inch's---if it's already at the top of it's travel with the arm all the way down, then yes sir your gonna need a bigger boat, I mean shorter bolt...

[MATT91GT]

yea i thought about that.. once i can get the other lca coated then i will try the endlinks then

[atomicEGT]

picked up my LCAs today... awesomeeeeeeeeeeee

now to find time to powdercoat/install them with the K-Sports/4-pt brace/Quickor bar... and an alignment shop that knows what the hell they're doing...

[KAinjection]

... and an alignment shop that knows what the hell they're doing...

This will be the hardest part of the whole process. Thats why I gave up and decided to do my own, just more time consuming.

[concealer404]

Hop on your local regions SCCA forums and ask where they have their alignments/corner weighting done. Bonus points if there's any Spec Miata racers around you.

[JPmotorsports]

This will be the hardest part of the whole process. Thats why I gave up and decided to do my own, just more time consuming.

I think maybe Jrally has a decent shop---give him a pm. Here's another version of the arms---it has the rodend out where the balljoint is---He's either making the pins/spacers or having the spindle machined---it'll be very nice, but probably twice the cost (and then some) as what the balljoint arms go for...Josh's are just about done/ready to ship and we're starting Swalt's arms tomorrow---Hadoken/Scott, give me a pm when you get a chance, thanks!


Oh, just saw your doing your own there in Phoenix---never mind...

[SgtRauksauff]

^^^^ sweetness!!!!! Do you know if the swaybar tab (if one were to be installed) happens to line up with that plate?

That's the drawing I was trying to come up with, but then I turned lame and stopped spending money.

[Duste]

I think maybe Jrally has a decent shop---give him a pm. Here's another version of the arms---it has the rodend out where the balljoint is---He's either making the pins/spacers or having the spindle machined---it'll be very nice, but probably twice the cost (and then some) as what the balljoint arms go for...Josh's are just about done/ready to ship and we're starting Swalt's arms tomorrow---Hadoken/Scott, give me a pm when you get a chance, thanks!

Can't wait for these to arrive. Welding looks amazing dude.

[JPmotorsports]

^^^^ sweetness!!!!! Do you know if the swaybar tab (if one were to be installed) happens to line up with that plate?

That's the drawing I was trying to come up with, but then I turned lame and stopped spending money.

Yes it does line up---he's going to install everything and bolt the links up and weld the tab on where it lays...

[KAinjection]

I want that version! later down the road maybe.....

I will call Jrally up or PM him, cause I would rather pay to have a shop do it, rather then messing with strings and jack stands, while a good learning experience, I dont have the time anymore.

[MATT91GT]

ok as an update. I will be installing these tomorrow. (just got the 2nd one back from my friend) I will also be doing the endlinks so i will take pictures of everything after installation and a road test

[JPmotorsports]

Glad to hear they're finally going to be put to good use. So I was going to do a small write up on the install process---maybe I can comment on Matt's photo's when he uploads them---couple things first---put the jamnuts on the rod ends and run them all the way tight---then run the rodend all the way tight in the arm and back it off 3 turns to start. Our goal is to have the least amount of resistance when installed so this is a good starting point (but may not be the end all be all spot).

Obviously jack up the car/put jackstands underneath the body around the front sills/the front and remove both wheels---you'll want to have the whole front unloaded/ up to make this easier. I'd remove the swaybar links from both sides first, then the balljoint bolts---then pull the arms off (front bolt and rear bushing housing/deal/maybe break the rear nut free while it's still bound in the car).

You'll install/slide the rear bushing/housing over the new arm and spin the nut on, but don't tighten (and please don't use airtools on anything other than the wheel when you take them off---please don't use an impact on my control arms!!!!) it tight---and remember to transfer the big washer over---the space/thickness of that washer is critical. Then you'll put the rear housing back in place/start the bolts---at the same time put the front rodend in the pocket and aluminum spacer which I believe goes on the rear side on the misalignments---should become obvious when your installing it.

I'd cycle the arm up and down---while everything is loose---a little bit of stiction is ok---but if there's alot then I'd rotate the rodend a turn in/out and try again until there's the least amount of resistance while you cycle (move the arm up and down) the arm---remember the arm only moves up and down about 6" at the balljoint so if that range of motion is free'd up your good. I'd guess the bushings in the car are used to the stock arm and while I patterned these off the mx-3 arms, not all arms will be exactly the same, so spend the extra time finding the best spot---those of you who are using Ryans sphericals will have an easier time of this---you can put them anyplace you like and they'll do heel clickers...

The swaybar stuff/details will come later as Matt posts photo's---for those of you who are currently running the escort length arms, these are longer and will give you about 2 degree's or so of negative camber and probably a crazy toe setting right after you install them---I'd rough in the toe after you set them on the ground and then head straight to an alignment shop. Personally for an "agressive streetcar" I'd go about 1 to 1.5 degree's negative camber and then toe the front a breath out (like a 64th of an inch). If you've got Ryans sphericals I'd go neutral toe. I'm sure there's a ton of stuff I've overlooked---I've changed arms on cars probably 500 times to I don't even think about the steps involved, so let's add idea's as we go...

[MATT91GT]

yes im sure there will be write-ups along with the pictures. i dont have an air compressor so i dont use air tools, hand tools are less likely to break things.

[MATT91GT]

to those who were interested i will PM them

[concealer404]

How was the install, Matt? Easy peasy?