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Swap Begins: Escort GT -> Escort GTX

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    #31
    im guessing that you dont live with your parents....my mom would kill me if i got a white shirt that dirty lol...
    91 323 GTX @ 16psi, 5 speed || December 07 R.O.T.M.
    Powered by MegaSquirt I PCB3, Tuned by Lex

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      #32
      Loks good but lose that valve cover

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        #33
        Did that valve cover come with the motor?

        Would look bettAr in Blue


        edit ~> sorry linked to pic, but then deleted it when I saw how huge it was... lol
        The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

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          #34
          thanks for the pic i now remember what was the 3 hole in the botom back of the engine, the mid shaft did you got all the harness done??
          2012 Kia rio
          2009 Nissan Frontier
          1997 chaparral 180LE

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            #35
            Hehe, I am doing my swap at my parents house - that shirt is one of many destroyed. They are even less happy with the mess in the garage The valve cover was painted by the guy who I got the motor from. I am planning on doing something different with it, but for now aesthetics are not a high priority. I can always go back to my ford stock valve cover

            The wiring is all done except for the O2 sensor and BTM. Exhaust is fabbed up (a home made job) that will get real welding done to it once the car is running.

            All that is left to do is to weld the intercooler pipes and the flange off the compressor housing.

            The intercooler is mounted nicely and I will have more pics in the next couple of days.

            I am excited and scared at the same time. I should be starting the motor this saturday. Wish me luck

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              #36
              Originally posted by Lex
              Hehe, I am doing my swap at my parents house - that shirt is one of many destroyed. They are even less happy with the mess in the garage The valve cover was painted by the guy who I got the motor from. I am planning on doing something different with it, but for now aesthetics are not a high priority. I can always go back to my ford stock valve cover

              The wiring is all done except for the O2 sensor and BTM. Exhaust is fabbed up (a home made job) that will get real welding done to it once the car is running.

              All that is left to do is to weld the intercooler pipes and the flange off the compressor housing.

              The intercooler is mounted nicely and I will have more pics in the next couple of days.

              I am excited and scared at the same time. I should be starting the motor this saturday. Wish me luck
              goodluck, mine started right up, hope yours does the same.
              00 dakota 4x4
              90 crx si - ls/vtec

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                #37
                good luck!!
                2012 Kia rio
                2009 Nissan Frontier
                1997 chaparral 180LE

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                  #38
                  good to hear its coming along nicely! did you ever happen to figure out how to remove the injector resistor box/what wires need to be re-spliced?? i need mine removed and have no clue how to go about it. thanx man

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by driftscort
                    good to hear its coming along nicely! did you ever happen to figure out how to remove the injector resistor box/what wires need to be re-spliced?? i need mine removed and have no clue how to go about it. thanx man

                    the resistor box is pretty simple.

                    the injector uses 4 ground signals that pulsate to control the valve. They have a 13.8v constant as well.

                    I can't remember the colors exactly so they might be off but you'll get the idea.

                    each injector has 2 wires going to it

                    inj1 has white/red and yellow
                    inj2 has white/red and yellow/black
                    inj3 has white/red and yellow
                    inj4 has white/red and yellow/black

                    the white/reds are the 13.8v constants. the yellows and y/b's are the grounds (signal wires)

                    here's how the resistor box is wired up.

                    from the ecu there should be 8 injector wires, the same colors listed above the injs1-4. the resistor box has the 4 white/reds from the ecu going to ONE wire going into the clip on the resistor box. Then the clip has 4 wires comming out they should all be the same color (i dunno what color that is because I've never seen a resistor box on an escort in person) Those go out to the 4 injectors they replace the white/red wires (13.8v) but the resistor box lows the resistance on them for low imp injectors.

                    ****DIAGRAM*****

                    | | | | <-- 4 wires comming from the box going to the injectors (should be the same color)
                    | | | |
                    [resistorbox]
                    | <-- 1 white/red to resistor box
                    /||\
                    / | | \ <--all 4 white/red from ecu


                    all 4 ground wires y and y/b's run directly to the ECU they are the signals from the ecu.

                    GTX injectors are high imp they don't use a resistor box, i guess some year egts have low imp injectors, none of the 4 i've owned ever have. So i never had to deal with it.

                    But basically, you just grab the 4 13.8v wires from the ecu and run one of each to the wires comming from the resistor clip

                    I hope you understand that I know I repeated some info but I wanna make sure you understand it. It's really cake walk though. and BTW I was looking @ a honda resistor box should be the same **** though... a resistor box is a resistor box.. those wire colors should be pretty accurate though.. I'm pretty sure I remember those too lol. I know they're accurate at the fuel rail. PM if you have any problems.

                    *EDIT well my diagram came out ****ty becausr the spacing ****ed up, but if you need me to draw one in photoshop i will. goodluck suckas!
                    00 dakota 4x4
                    90 crx si - ls/vtec

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                      #40
                      Hey Pat that is great info. However, for the canadian escort/ canadian proteges it's even simpler. The resistor box has ONE wire going in and ONE wire coming out. This can only mean that there is a resistor in the box that is in series across those two wires. I went to a junkyard and broke resistor box off a protege there and indeed, all there is is a coild\ of wire connecting the IN wire to the OUT wire.

                      So to remove, simply cut the wires going into the box and solder them together - thus removing ~1.5 ohm of resistence.

                      I have not started the motor yet, but there is no other logical way I see of removing that box. Pat, if you disagree please let me know.

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                        #41
                        well as long as you have the 13.8v constant wire comming from the ecu going straight to the inj's then you got it.. wow 1 wire to 1 wire simple.
                        00 dakota 4x4
                        90 crx si - ls/vtec

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                          #42
                          where is the resistor box located? i wonder if my 91 has one...
                          sigpic

                          03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
                          92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

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                            #43
                            Its bolted to the strut tower on the passenger side - easy to spot. I only heard of Canadian models having them

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                              #44
                              Ok, so the car started but there are problems. First of all, there is a loud ticking at what seems every cylinder fire. I don't know if this is injectors or lifters. The ticking does not go away. The reason I say it might be injectors is because I removed the injector resistor box (I am running the GTX injectors) and I have weird electrical problems as well. A loud buzzing comes from the passenger side strut corner of the car - and when I turn the headlights on it goes away ... really strange as I did not modify that harness at all.


                              I also have a check engine light Does anyone know how to pull the codes off these BP ecus?

                              The first thing I will try is to put the injector resistor box back and see what that does ... if it's lifters it will be a bigger problem to fix - I will swap them with the ones in my NA motor.

                              Any suggestions are appreciated

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                                #45
                                If its the lifters, the noise should quiet down or possibly dissapear after the emgine runs for a little while. If the motor has been sitting for awhile they probply just need to get some oil circulated in.

                                To pull the codes you have to jump ten and gnd in the diagnostics box behind the battery on the firewall. I forget the exact steps, but the CEL will flash X amount of times and you compare that to the code in the manual. If you dont already have one, pick up a Haynes manual as it outlines the process and has a list of all the codes.
                                2013 Dodge Dart Aero

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