MS woes round-2

[therieldeal]

it will be close to the 70's range unless something wierd is going on, like your rotor is on wrong or you are using some sort of freak distributor.

to me it sounds like you have too much ignition advance while cranking, and thats why its stopping it dead like that. take a look at my ignition map... the boxes at the lowest RPM bin near 100kpa. i use "calculated" spark angle while cranking, i think they are set to 8* or something like that.

[FE3-323]

thermo resistor tables for the stock CTS & the GM IAT please anyone????

just ran another reflash of the final release of 2.1.0 & now it appears as if the TPS is fine again.
I've gotta make sure the CTS & IAT are correct, as well as the map sensor settings.

[therieldeal]

the IAT should match the defaults

CLT i have no way to get to since my MS is out of the car etc. i'm sure someone will chime in.

[323driver]

For the coolant temp sensor, use factory values listed in the FSM. Just get 3 rows from the table and the associated resistances and burn them to MS. Actually, I'm using the same coolant sensor for my IAT readings, makes calibration easier since all the calibration values are the same.

[therieldeal]

i wouldnt think you'd get fast enough response out of the stock clt sensor to use it for air...

[FE3-323]

Anyone want a MS2 extra. this ****'s garbage to me. im tired of failing

[Lex]

Logs look ok ... it cranks and dies.

Change your trigger angle to 70 degrees.
Do you get spark when cranking from the coil?
Do you get fuel in the engine?

[FE3-323]

i can't freely crank it above 65° it'll eat itself & deadstop the starter/cranking
i've already busted a tab on the starter & im afraid of what the flywheel teeth look like now lol

If its really supposed to be in the 70 range then something else is extremely wrong. fuel is there all the time fuel pump control is not connected to the MS.
i can get it to fire off for about a second tops & thats about it. the best run like that was @ -15.5°
cranking advance is set @ 5°

[Beerizfood]

It sounds like the dist is way out.
I dont have a BP here to compare but ,will the rotor go on 3 different ways?
Can the dist be installed 180 out?

[yunvmyegt]

yea the rotor can go on 3 different ways, ive actually tried it a few yrs ago just to see what it would do....lol.... but the dist can also go in 2 ways too... so add up the possibilitys...lol.... if you pulled off the dist and rotor for any reason id deffinatly recheck it...

[Beerizfood]

yea the rotor can go on 3 different ways, ive actually tried it a few yrs ago just to see what it would do....lol.... but the dist can also go in 2 ways too... so add up the possibilitys...lol.... if you pulled off the dist and rotor for any reason id deffinatly recheck it...

Thats worth double checking .The Z5 dist only goes in one way.
Good for peolpe lacking skillz like me

[FE3-323]

folks, the car car was running OEM on the bp26 ecu. i haven't removed or moved the disty @ all.

[Beerizfood]

folks, the car car was running OEM on the bp26 ecu. i haven't removed or moved the disty @ all.

Oh,its gotta be electronic control then,but why?
Hard cranking is usually crazy advanced timing and as you stated it acted better at -15.
Try moving your rotor anyways just for schlitz.

[FE3-323]

im not comfortable moving my rotor when it shouldn't be that

[Beerizfood]

im not comfortable moving my rotor when it shouldn't be that

Fair enough,i just thought it might help you troubleshoot the issue.