MS woes round-2

[MD323]

im not comfortable moving my rotor when it shouldn't be that

ok, how about this, move the dissy (with the car running on the GTX ECU) back to 10 Deg. according to the proper procedurces and then hook up the MS and see if it will start.

if this is not possible and/or you dont really wanna then retard the dissy about a 1/2" from its mechanical limit and see if you can crank and start on 65-75 angle.


and since i dont see any background:

who built it? (this can start a flare up so omit if needed)

did they instruct you on what the dissy should be set to on the MS?

where all (if any) of the sensors preset by this person to the factory values or did you need to do this yourself? (if you did them then they should atleast be viewed by a member to see if their correct, if you need a value in paticular I can pull up my file)

is the harness a stock harness? custom made?

can someone else atleast start their car with your file?

do you have a stim board to test the MS hardware on?


this info will help everyone extrapolate the information needed to get a complete picture of whats going on, sorry if its ranty/long it comes from doing support for 8 years

[Lex]

This is an MS2, so setting up the CLT and IAT offsets is different (easier) than the MSI. I have looked at his log. He is reading RPM correctly, CLT and IAT seem ok (they showed 65 degrees each).

I notice that the PW is only 3.x ms. At that CLT temp (65 degrees) the PW for 360cc injectors should be around 4.5ms-5ms. Req_fuel should be around 10ms and you should have 2 injections per cycle alternating. This applies to the 360cc injectors.

If you get spark at the coil and the spark plug wires are going to the correct place, then I strongly suggest setting the offset to 70 to 75 degrees with nothing else added to this angle and the disty in the middle of its movement range. The car should start at this point.

Unfortunately since this MS did not come from me, I don't have a known working base map for your configuration.

[FE3-323]

i got the correct values for the CTS, other then that its all default stuff.

I built the wiring harness myself. i know the harness is good. besides that i've tested anything i thought might be questionable.

I don't have any stim board to test it with no
There is spark, i checked that fuel i've gotta assume is there since i can get it to fire off

Matt actually built it for me, he's been my support guru through all of my nonsense with it. he's in germany tho so that does complicate things a bit.

[FE3-323]

Lex, im running the RX7 460cc's

[Lex]

Ok, 3.5-3.8 ms is about right for those injectors. Take out the plugs and look that they all have fuel on them after cranking just to make sure.

It really isn't more complicated than spark, fuel, and air. Send me a screenshot of the Spark Settings menu if you can so I can take a look at how its setup.

[323driver]

i wouldnt think you'd get fast enough response out of the stock clt sensor to use it for air...

You would be surprised. Air temperature doesn't change really fast and if it's able to catch the coolant temp change pretty accurately, it can catch the air temperature as well.

[therieldeal]

i *still* think you need to unplug the injectors or turn off the fuel pump and have someone else crank it while you hit it with a timing light. around 8* has worked best for me for cranking advance.

[TurboProto]

I hope I dont have problems like this. Lex just built the one for my buddies MX3. It will be a few weeks until im ready to install it.
Sorry Ryan that your dealing with these issues, I hope u get it fixed soon.

[FE3-323]

Okay, MegaSquirt guru's Here's the issue im seeing

Basic trigger
skip pulses- (3)
specs: timing(fixed 10° advance)
no prediction

while attempting to set the trigger angle. its supposed range is between 10-20° (regardless of what anyone says-this is what the timing light shows)[unsure why its different then anyone else's]

problem encountering i can match the flash to the 10 mark for 2-3 flashes if im lucky then it will jump up to 6/7° either way (depending how high i have the trigger angle set) if its set closer to the 10 side it'll flash @ 10° & then jump up to 16/17 ish & flash there occasionally bouncing to 12° ish.

There is zero consistancy whatsoever in any attempt to lock in a trigger angle.
RPM reads pretty correct
it ran on the OEM stuff before swapping back to the MS harness/ecu
i don't have another distributer to test sadly


I need help i need to have my car back on the road. even if it takes mailing the entire setup i have back out to someone who can install/test/fix it for me.

Ryan

[matt_fulghum]

Is the car idling, or is the engine speed bouncing around? If the car can't idle at a constant speed, then it won't be possible to really time the ignition in. You really need a constant engine speed to use an ignition light. If the engine speed is reasonably constant though, I'm not sure why the MS would be doing this, especially if the timing's locked at 10 degrees.

Have you been logging your attempts? It'd be easier to understand what's going on if there was something we could look over.

[therieldeal]

its not even running yet, he's hitting it with a timing light while cranking with the injectors unplugged

[yunvmyegt]

if you need a disty to try and cant get one, i have a few , just pay shipping for now. if it works well figure something out....

[matt_fulghum]

What are your spark dwell settings set as right now, also, what are you using for a coil?

[FE3-323]

OEM coil.

heres some screenshots

[323driver]

Like I said in my PM, I dunno what others use for triggering but I use the 4/1 trigger and it works perfectly. For that, you need to modify the 1st (4 slot signal) circuit and build a second similar (1 slot signal) circuit. http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_4_1.htm