What did you do to your BF today???

[riverrunnernky]

Anyone have a need for a GT engine and trans? B6T pulled when it was boosting 9 lbs.

I would rebuild due to miles, 225K. Ran awesome when I pulled it. I am moving and can't keep carting extra stuff I am not using daily.

Just asking...

[DuRWooD]

Well, I was going to make a quick pictorial how-to on the rear wheel bearings for a GT. I remembered that the right side lock nut was left hand thread... immediately after destroying it with 1000 ft/lbs of IR impact gun. LOL, it's good practice to use a new lock nut anyway. I however, decided to do this on a Sunday, when no parts stores are open. I'm very glad I didn't strip the spindle threads.

For those who haven't done it, the rear wheel bearings are very easy to do. The bearings come right off of the spindle by hand. The hardest part is tapping the old races out of the hub. I just used the old races and a hammer to seat the new ones in place.

[Mr N4SA]

Well, I was going to make a quick pictorial how-to on the rear wheel bearings for a GT. I remembered that the right side lock nut was left hand thread... immediately after destroying it with 1000 ft/lbs of IR impact gun. LOL, it's good practice to use a new lock nut anyway. I however, decided to do this on a Sunday, when no parts stores are open. I'm very glad I didn't strip the spindle threads.

For those who haven't done it, the rear wheel bearings are very easy to do. The bearings come right off of the spindle by hand. The hardest part is tapping the old races out of the hub. I just used the old races and a hammer to seat the new ones in place.

lol, yes the thread direction is different on the BF. The color of the nuts also differs. the one is black and the other is yellowish. Do you perhaps know what the torque settings on these nuts must be? Once I tightened mine too much, and the bearing lasted about a 200km.

[DuRWooD]

FSM specifies 18 - 22 ft/lbs for the rears.

[riverrunnernky]

I must agree,

I will add, do not replace the old bearing with anything less than hardened steel bearings such as Timken. I learned the hard way. Cheap bearings will tic you off at how short lived they are.

Well, I was going to make a quick pictorial how-to on the rear wheel bearings for a GT. I remembered that the right side lock nut was left hand thread... immediately after destroying it with 1000 ft/lbs of IR impact gun. LOL, it's good practice to use a new lock nut anyway. I however, decided to do this on a Sunday, when no parts stores are open. I'm very glad I didn't strip the spindle threads.

For those who haven't done it, the rear wheel bearings are very easy to do. The bearings come right off of the spindle by hand. The hardest part is tapping the old races out of the hub. I just used the old races and a hammer to seat the new ones in place.

[riverrunnernky]

What I have done to mine lately:

Need help,

had a fuel pump replaced this weekend, and I have issues with stalling while driving every few seconds, exception is driving at
4000 rpm. The check engine light comes on/off at random. This breakdown was a costly one. It's amazing at the half ass mechanics in this world. Tech left a broken screw in the tank where the pump is retained to the tank. It cased the tai to leak and created no pressure in the tank. 1.5 hours from the shop I refueled and observed fuel dumping on the ground by the gallon, until I stopped the refueling. My trip into Alabama was postponed and the shop would not offer to reimburse my hotel and inconvenience. Closed Sunday, this hesitation/stalling actions is not repaired yet. I'm determined that this shop in Bowling Green, Ky will repair this in full. The symptoms are stalling at highway speeds and sometimes the Check engine light come on and in some time goes off.

In the last year, these items replaced:

Plugs, disty, coil pack,fuel pump.

The car went down on Thursday pm about 10pm in a remote area of Kentucky, being towed to Bowling Green,Ky to lodge and to get repairs the next day.

This alleged fuel pump failure has cost me $500. on the road, $300. for the pump and labor, fuel loss and 2 nights lodging and lost time.


Any heads up on this condition please call me.

Friends and family please pass the word, Mark Muffler Shop recommended by AAA in Bowling Green,Ky., was a failure for me.

I do not recommend them.

[DuRWooD]

Sucks to hear man, mine had similar symptoms when the air flow connection was faulty. Hope you get it figured out.

[DuRWooD]

I must agree,

I will add, do not replace the old bearing with anything less than hardened steel bearings such as Timken. I learned the hard way. Cheap bearings will tic you off at how short lived they are.

I went with SKF bearings. I work in industrial manufacturing, it's what we use. They use Timkin steel actually.

[riverrunnernky]

Thanks for the reply,

I will suggest the shop checks for that possibility. At 200 miles from my home I will still have that shop investigate and get the chance to maintain a Christian operated business. The ran a 1/4 tank of fuel to make the decision the fuel pump failed is why the engine suddenly died while investigating and working on other vehicles. I do question the decision now because of my observation of the 1/4 tank of fuel to make the find and now while driving t road speeds it drops rpms every few seconds, and the check engine light comes on and goes off again.

I wish us guys lived closer, I'm not a real mechanic, a parts replacer I am, I'm afraid many auto shops on the roads are no more educated than I am.

[DuRWooD]

Well, my left hand thread spindle nut came in today, so I got the car back on the road. Nice and quiet at high speed now. Found out my trusty torque wrench doesn't torque left, but luckily I happened to buy a new one for no real reason on the weekend. I also installed some nighthawk platinum headlight bulbs, for the $60 + tax I'm not blown away, but they do light up the road really well.

[Mr N4SA]

Well, my left hand thread spindle nut came in today, so I got the car back on the road. Nice and quiet at high speed now. Found out my trusty torque wrench doesn't torque left, but luckily I happened to buy a new one for no real reason on the weekend. I also installed some nighthawk platinum headlight bulbs, for the $60 + tax I'm not blown away, but they do light up the road really well.

Night Hawk Platinum Bulbs, who manufacture these?
I am using Osram NightBreakers on my BF, works well compared to the original bulbs fitted to the car. However, they were just roughly $20+VAT.

Also, thanks for the Wheel Bearing Torque Settings, might need it this weekend as mine are starting to hummmmmmm like choir.

My BF also had some maintenance done to it.
My fuelpump packed up on Friday morning on my way to work. Got one from the mazda dealers at $35 incl VAT.
And on Monday, it started to jerk when I drive, plugleads had seen better days. $23 for the plug leads.
Now, the BF is running smooth again, and I am a happy chappy now.

[DuRWooD]

The nighthawks are GE, although they do work really well, they're not worth the money IMO.


I had quite the day with the GT today. First, my girlfriend accidently took my keys with her to school. Then when she finally got home, I left to go into town, as soon as I got on the highway *pop* something went wrong. Engine bay covered in oil! I turned around and went home. Found a cap had blown off an oil line on the back of the oil pan. So I replaced it, checked the oil, it was on the bottom of the dip stick, so I added a liter and went into town to get a new PCV valve (I found it had failed causing my crank case to pressurize)

Anyway, I get the new PCV on and stop at my parents', car is ticking bad, so I check the oil again. Not even on the dip stick (it must have been residual oil left on before - I negated wiping it off and checking again *face palm*)

So I add oil, another 2 liters! Ticking is gone thankfully.

Driving home though there is a new problem, apparently turbos don't like being run dry of oil, it's toast. Oh well, could've been worse I suppose. I've got one more spare turbo left, I'll replace it tomorrow.

I'm still not close to considering buying a "practical" car.

[DuRWooD]

Put the spare VJ14 in the GT. Removed the boost controller, as I don't want any breakdowns durning the winter. What a difference 8psi makes, the car is completely tame now, the boost comes on smooth, the car doesn't lunge into the other lane when hitting boost. No more spinning the tires all the way through 2nd an again at the top of third. This sucks

[nickz]

Put the spare VJ14 in the GT. Removed the boost controller, as I don't want any breakdowns durning the winter. What a difference 8psi makes, the car is completely tame now, the boost comes on smooth, the car doesn't lunge into the other lane when hitting boost. No more spinning the tires all the way through 2nd an again at the top of third. This sucks

,
I think you'll be at 8 psi for a couple weeks at best .the cars going to love the nice cold.dense air,mmmmm 14psi! boost!

[Iantboyd]

Went to the pick n pull and grabbed some interior parts. There is a SE hatch that has some nice parts on it. I believe kyb shocks and some sort of fancy springs, they are blue. The rotors where drilled and sloted and very shiny. tokico strut tubes were inside on the floor. nice rear seats. just an fyi, this is at the pick n pull in arlington wa.