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**DeeAOne** · 10-15-2010, 03:17 AM

looking good ryan!

**FE3-323** · 10-15-2010, 04:05 AM

holy crap man. putting a BP in my 323 made my ex cry because the power increase scared her sh*tless... i can only imagine waht this thing'll do... its gonna be nuts!

girls like that make me press the gas even more

thanks louis!

my current resolve is trying to figure out fitting the A/C compressor right under the turbo. (in my excitement i forgot about it entirely)

By looks of things, i'll be lowering the A/C compressor via a bracket[custom made] to sit partially along the oil pan
after that its figuring out a tensioner pulley system (likely just a slide on the serp belt)
im beginning to debate repositioning the water outlet to protrude outward towards the coresupport to gain more sectional lower clearance

PS- Kia water outlet(aluminum) mazda water outlet(steel)
the mazda water neck curves back towards the radiator outlet, which is nice.
the kia's however is straight down with no such curve, but lighter & better fitted for coolant heat dissipation

**89BG 323** · 10-15-2010, 05:05 AM

Originally posted by FE3-323 View Post

girls like that make me press the gas even more

yup, i chuckled and ripped into it even harder on the way back. lol. she was not very happy with me, but whatever.

**FE3-323** · 10-19-2010, 12:40 AM

Picked up some sheet metal today & decided to finish cutting some more clearance on the subframe.

at this time im fairly confident i can clear the steering rack using a toyota AWD transfer without having to raise it.

HOWEVER, the mx6 spindles have a higher tie rod point- which raises question to bump steer issues~~~~~ any input as to this???

a couple points of the mx6 2.2T spindle in comparison to a BG Lx spindle
higher tie rod point ~4mm
lower strut mounting point ~ 3/8"

Attached Files

**neuspeedescort** · 10-19-2010, 07:08 PM

i would recommend welding the subframe while its bolted into the car properly. would be less likely to flex from heat.

NEUMAN

**jinx** · 10-19-2010, 07:27 PM

Originally posted by neuspeedescort View Post

i would recommend welding the subframe while its bolted into the car properly. Would be less likely to flex from heat.

Neuman

+1

**Mazda_Powered** · 10-19-2010, 08:40 PM

good call! never thought of that.

**neuspeedescort** · 10-19-2010, 11:19 PM

i am worth more then i seem at times. LOL

NEUMAN

**Mazda_Powered** · 10-20-2010, 11:27 AM

worth? i thought this was priceless haha.

**Lex** · 10-20-2010, 01:51 PM

Ryan, looking great, don't forget to add a bracket to the block to brace the turbo/exhaust or the manifold may crack due to heat and vibrations.

**FE3-323** · 10-20-2010, 11:46 PM

in an effort to increase structural integrity making up for what material was removed, additional welding along the seams of the subframe were done. bit by bit with enough cooling time to prevent warping.

Yes the welds were smoothed out. some places were higher then i cared for due to my lazyness to attempt properly prepping the seam points & i went a little crazy with the flap sanding disc

all in good fun

overall i would go so far to say, even in its current state. Its strength is very comparable to the OE piece. tomorrow i will finish boxing in the subframe then tackle painting

Attached Files

**Justbp-me** · 10-21-2010, 01:10 AM

your lower tie bar looks rusty

should powder coat or spray that sucker.

**FE3-323** · 10-21-2010, 03:45 AM

bah powdercoat doesn't belong on suspension components.

por-15 or equivelent however does suit the purpose. but thats a bar only to help hold it solid. im not concerned about it