EGT Group 2 Rallycar Build

[frogi323]

nice build so far. just wondering what the specs are for those rod ends are?
or where i can get them.

[jrally]

The tie-bar is used to take flex out of the subframe. In reality, it would probably do more on the other side of the subframe, where the mount points are tubes hanging out in space. Or better yet, one on both ends. I did notice a difference with and without one on my car, when I was doing track events, it's a worth while addition, for nearly free. I find them about every third or forth trip to the yards.

-Jon R.

[JPmotorsports]

The rodends are from Midwest control and I normally have about 20 in stock here at the shop---they're main use is for tie rods/drag links for offroad race vehicles so they provide plenty of strength for our application---and at a $10 a piece budget. Here's a description:

Midwest Control Products MXM Series Chromoly Rod Ends - MXM-12 3/4" 16 tpi rod ends. Great for the budget builder. Housing is made from Chromoly Steel Alloy with a bright chrome polished finish. Ball is made from bearing steel and heat treated and hard chrome finished. Race is made from injection molded Nylon. Ultimate Radial Static Load - 27,019 lbs.

Contact JRally---he's got a complete setup for the rear at a very reasonable price---if you just need some rod ends then I can help-Jim-www.piercemotorsports.com

[frogi323]

i cant afford his set. so i guess i just need the rod ends. then what size pipe did you use?

would those rod ends work for a daily?

[SgtRauksauff]

They'd work just fine for a daily. You'd just hear a LOT more noise than you currently do.



--sarge

[frogi323]

noise? something some grease would cure? is there a quiter rod end? and whats the average life span on these?

sorry so many ques.

[JPmotorsports]

You could put some rubber/urethane "washers" on each side of the rodend and that should cut down the noise a bit. The life span would be many years on a street car, and when you have to change one out, it's 100 times easier than the bushing's and only $10!! I used some 3/4" x .186 wall tubing and then drilled and tapped the holes out for the 3/4" thread. Jon's version is quite a bit less money then this route and he's made spacers to make everything work---I'd re-consider buying his set---it's a bolt in deal with no headaches---maybe he'll offer some sort of financing!! 0% interest---no payments for 90 days...what do you think Jon!!!

[jrally]

I'm not a bank... LOL I can do just a set of the spacers/bushings for $80, then you source the heims, jam nuts and rods. The only concern I would have on the street, that Jim and I don't think of much, might be rust build-up in the winter time. Since we both live in the SW, we don't really deal with rust much, but having lived in the midwest, I'm certainly familiar with how quickly steel will rust in the winter time, especially if your area uses salt on the streets.

-Jon R.
(p.s. Why does Chuck get a stripped down version of my exhuast system; only one glass pack, no CAT??? LOL) I still want to replace the rear muffler with a turbo style chamber muffler...

[JPmotorsports]

You've gotta paint it pink to get the cool exhaust!!! Actually I need to order a cat from ARIZONA because they wont sell me the one I want here in California---either that or I'm waiting for a used one to come in...

[jrally]

Yeah, Chuck in a pink rally car will be COOL!!! LOL

-Jon R.

[frogi323]

well i think ill build it myself and save some cash. all i need are the rod ends and nuts. the rest i can get for a case of beer. thank you for the info. (rust is a very big issue so i think im going to paint everything first plus in thinking about putting boots on all of it.)

[JPmotorsports]

Good luck with it and post pics!! I've got rodends if you need them and Jon's spacers may make things a lot easier---just a thought... This company makes some cool boots- http://www.sealsit.com/rodendboots.asp
We've used them at the Baja 1000 and the rodends make it til the end (barely!). What are you planning for the swaybar link??

[frogi323]

ill check it out. im not sure on the sway bar yet. ill have to research some things. ill get back to you on it.

and thanks again for the info. you guys actually solved a big issue for me. i was going to get the ttl's from mazda but they want 400ish$ for all four. way to much.

[JPmotorsports]

This one's getting a carbon fiber hood/and rear hatch as well as lexan to get as much weight off the top of the car as possible.

Also we just pulled out the tacked in rollcage so we could punch holes in the floor underneath-later when we re-install the cage and pull the plates out, the cage will drop down a few inches so we can complete the welds on the tops...

The other reason is so I can build a bolt in escort cage and jig it up, hopefully in the future I'll be able to sell the bolt-in escort cages that will actually fit decently inside the interior with only a few clearance mods...

[jrally]

Nice reflection in the hood of the Mirage rear suspension...