Mazda_Powered's 91 Protege LX

[Mazda_Powered]

They sure are haha, this is my first FMIC setup I've done, so I didn't have much experience...and I also didn't know my flux core welder was the tits at welding SS lol.

Could have went out, purchased 2 U-J bends and a few feet of straight tubing and it'd only have couplers at the TB, and IC since the VJ20 is flanged on the outlet lol...grr...you don't even want to know how many couplers are in the system right now. Hell I think the outlet pipe has 4 because I ran out of aluminum bends haha...

I know I'll have use for my aluminum pipes/bends/couplers later on in life (or even sell them) so I'm not to worried about pulling it all off and going into storage...hell this way I'd have a nice set of FMIC pipes and they'd sell easily if the time came where I changed my setup...this current setup isn't worth much due to the couplers lol

[M323GTR]

Same here i gotta get mine straightened out mines a mess too

[concealer404]

Measure/record voltage at your fuel pump when it leans out.

[Mazda_Powered]

I did that way back in the day and it never dropped under 12v for me, but I can always try it again lol. What would cause voltage loss at the pump btw? I know some cars upgrade the wiring to get +12V

[concealer404]

I did that way back in the day and it never dropped under 12v for me, but I can always try it again lol. What would cause voltage loss at the pump btw? I know some cars upgrade the wiring to get +12V

Bad ground is the most common issue. Or another system pulling more draw than it should.

I'm trying to chase a similar issue with my MX6 that seems to only happen when cruising with the headlights AND the blower motor on. It'll randomly cycle up into the 16s and 17s AFRs, then drop back down to the high 14s/low 15s where it should.

I'm about to run a dedicated ground for the pump and see what that does before moving forward. The only other thing i can figure is that my wideband sensor is eating ****, and because it feeds my ECU, it's affecting how the car runs. Being that it's at least 5 years old and has 30k+ miles on it, that could be a possibility.

[Mazda_Powered]

ya that's a weird one man lol, I was having o2 sensor issues prior, but I have a solid working 4 wire o2 on now, and an OEM spare that's apparently working well as well.

Before my o2 voltage was .02v consistent lol...now it's cycling from almost 0v to around .7V at idle and voltage goes up to .85 when the turbo spools...then drops to around .1 then flashes me there's no fuel :/ (flashes on decel when they cut fuel as well)

[concealer404]

Wait... do you not have a wideband display?

[Mazda_Powered]

not since about 2 months after I had the car running, original wideband died on me after about 5,000 miles

[concealer404]

not since about 2 months after I had the car running, original wideband died on me after about 5,000 miles

Get another one, fool!

You just need a sensor?

[Mazda_Powered]

Hasn't been in the budget since it died on me lol...but no it's the unit itself unfortunately.

Basically it's either I get a wideband or go MS right now...so I'm going MS route first since I'll be able to get a much cheaper wideband for the MS unit.

[Mazda_Powered]

SO SICK OF THIS CAR.

I just wish the damn thing would run properly in boost and not give me erratic a/f ratios...I tried messing with two VAFs today for the hell of it, and I could either get the o2 voltage pig rich on idle, or lean on idle...no matter what the voltage would drop on it's face when boost starts to build.

Another odd note, is when my o2 voltage reads .92V there's no black exhaust smoke...none...I rev it, and it's pretty much transparent (cold weather).

Would you not think I could tune the VAF to have this thing spitting out fuel basically?? Or is there some kind of fail safe from this happening? I tried in diagnostics mode and out of diagnostics mode. Adjusted the VAF wheel, the VAF idle bypass screw and the TB idle bypass screw for the last 75 minutes and NOTHING changed.

Would there be another sensor interfering with fuel? Any thing I can disconnect to see if it'll dump fuel??

[MazdaNoob]

was it completely warmed up ?

[MD323]

i was able to get rusty323's Vaf to lean out up top maybe .5 of an AFR at the most after that it was no real change, this was also a B6T ecu tho.
wen we crunched the numbers in a year of driving the gas mileage difference of trying to run 460's and a tuned VAF Vs. the stock 330's he could buy an MS (tho the tuning and install would have only cost him beer ) but with a stock setup the Vaf should be able to give you some tuning, if not it maybe bad.

[Mazda_Powered]

was it completely warmed up ?

Yep fan kicked on before I even started messing with anything. Found out my spare 4 wire o2 was lazy, so I swapped it out for an almost new OEM 1 wire and it's working great. Once that was fixed I tried tuning the U code, no luck...then the Supra VAF and no luck...well no differences really other than what my o2 voltage went to for idle lol.

i was able to get rusty323's Vaf to lean out up top maybe .5 of an AFR at the most after that it was no real change, this was also a B6T ecu tho.
wen we crunched the numbers in a year of driving the gas mileage difference of trying to run 460's and a tuned VAF Vs. the stock 330's he could buy an MS (tho the tuning and install would have only cost him beer ) but with a stock setup the Vaf should be able to give you some tuning, if not it maybe bad.

Yea lol mines never ran "pig rich" before, no black exhaust at idle, ect. I also tried 2 different VAFs...ah well. Just going to swap in the U code so it at least will see moderate throttle that way til I get all paid up for that MS unit

[FE3-323]

you will literally misfire & stall out the engine before you can get it to "spit fuel" in terms. Im currently way out of range on injector size for what the GTR ecu can handle.... yet i can only get it to lean out to a certain extent.