new amp/sub suggestion

[traitorhound]

hey blue you know if they numbers on those crunch amps are RMS numbers. . .i dunno if they do the BS number like the power acoustic and the other companies do where you have to go searching for the RMS figures but ive been looking around the site and could really find any.. ..as of now it's between i think the 2 crunch amps (or the single 5 channel, dunno if 100 watts extra to the sub is going to make that much of a difference, more power is cooler though), or the kole/power acoustick amps (since the kole is cheaper and has the exact same specs leading to beleive the same circuits again

[blue LEDz]

the numbers on the amps are rms ratings, from what my rep told me. i might not be at the promazda meet, so i won't be able to hook you up

[traitorhound]

alright. . .well ive made my decision. . .i got the 4 channel class a/b power acoustic amp in the mail. . .and then im going to save up for the A1800DB for after christmas. ......and i figure i would either mate that amp with a 10in MOFO (BB discount again) or that audiobahn at thezeb.com. .....sound like a good plan?. . .hmm mofo don't like sealed box.. .. i want a sealed box for smaller size. ....

lol. . .well since i totally changed my budget to save up for next year i guess eithter the fubr or the mofo if i wanna stay with PA.....

[blue LEDz]

nice i had the A1700DB from the first year they offered the DB series. that's why i got the A3000DB now the mofo can take a beating. i had my 15 running off the A1700DB in a transmission line box for almost a year, and it's been in my friend's car for another 9 months

[traitorhound]

now i just need the money for that class d amp.. .or are there any otehr recommendations now since im going to spending $$ on this now. . .Power acoustic seems to be pretty cheap on this stuff too

[blue LEDz]

power acoustik is IMO the best of the cheap brands they have turned their company around in the past 3-4 years. they used to put out nothing but crap, so they got a bad rep. but since farenheit partnered up with them, quality has gone way up. not to mention the group that owns them owns farenheit and sound stream also

[traitorhound]

i guess im going to have to get new wiring too eh?

as of now i have a 4 gauge running back to my dist block with 2 8 gauge outputs with an 80A fuse at the terminal.

i actuaally went out and saw the amp this weekend (i went to watts in a box just to look at stuff (retails for 400usd) for the amp there) and it has 3 30A fuses on it and i would suppose the other amp im getting would have a single 30A or 2 30A fuses on it. . ..hmmmmmm what to do?

and i would suppose knuconcepts would be the place to get 2ga or should i sport for 0 ga. . ..cause i would suppose everyone is going to tell me that 4ga isn't enough for what im going to run....

im going to have the money for the amp in like a week (if rebate checks come in the mail then im set). . i have 240 right now and my friend owes me 40 so that'll be enough to get it from discountave.net (it's really weird that htey have two sites: discountave.net and discountavenue.net) one of them isn't an authorized dealer for their stuff and then they are authorized for all the PA associated brands but they sell them at higher costs.....is there really a difference if they are the same site (address lookup is the same along with phone numbers and billing sheets)

[Lenny]

Not changing post on you!

I'm wondering about getting a cap and what I'd need. I'm running the e12k.14 w/ the us acoustic 2150 about 450watts.. What would I need if anything????

[traitorhound]

you could go with a 1.0F cap IIRC you should have like 1farad per 500 watts or something. . .. correct me if im wrong

it really does help brighten up the sound. . .at least i noticed it when i first put my cap in. . . .the sound came in with so much more detail and came in clearer. . .and the other side effect was that my headlights dimmed a lot less when fully cranked

[Lenny]

Thanks!

alright thanks

[blue LEDz]

traitorhound, i'd go for 1/0 cable. it's only $2.25 per foot, and it's a matter of safety when you are running higher amp load

Lenny, caps are worthless, till you've upgraded your alternator, battery, and have proper wiring all they are is an extra load that will reduce the life of your alternator. your first upgrade should always be a better battery with higher CCA's and higher reserve capacity. i don't have the formula in front of me, since i'm on my friend's computer, but i've done the calculations, proving that a capacitor can only help for a tiny fraction of a second. i mean we are talking less than a 10th of a second in most cases. richard clark did a test with a 2000 watt system and a 10 farad cap, i think, and the voltages where extremely close. the best noted part was that with the cap, the voltage did not get as high as without it, and the higher the voltage, the more output from the amp so the cap actually hurt the system in that aspect. once i get my brahma back, i should have my new clamp meter to do current testing, and i will hopefully have my SPL meter by then also. i'll be doing an extensive test comparing my system with a batcap 300, with a 1 farad cap, and with nothing, to see which setup has the highest wattage from the amp, and which has the highest SPL

[traitorhound]

cool. ....ill do the 0 gauge. . ... i gotta get new fuse holders and dist blocks. . .eh. . .lol. .... ...actually never mind. . .im just gonna get rid of my dist blocks and use my cap as a dist block.. that seems simple enough. . .makes stuff a little simpler too

would it be safe to run the 1800db for a little while on the 4 gague as long as i keep it at 4 ohms and above. .. right now i have an 80A fuse on my battery. . . should that suffice? i would supposed that going down to 2 ohms and 1 ohm will bring my power draw super high and MAY melt the wires or blow teh fuse so i won't be cranking it. . .. .300rms from that jensen i had was almost beginning to be too much for me. . .but i know after a while im going to love all this power i have sitting behind me and try to crank it . .so ill be safe later


then its time for the yellow top (unless theres a different recommendation for that, i remember reading about hte sprial cell and whatnot). . ive been on the stock battery still. . . .and i know its gonna die soon. ....cause it's been drained once and my inverter gives me the low voltage warning at idle every once in a while to i have to drive around to charge it back up



on anotehr note. . .sucks that you can't make it this weekend. . that would've been cool

[blue LEDz]

yeah it's safe to run the 1800DB off the 4 guage at higher impedance i know my amp will suck down about 150 amps at 1 ohm, so your's should be a bit over half that. say about 90 amps at 1 ohm. course running at 4 ohm is about 1/4 what my amp will do, so we'll say about 40 amps is what it'll need. 40 amps and a length of 18 feet will only need 4 guage cable

unless you play your system a lot with the car off, a yellow top is worthless. get a red top it's designed to be the starting battery for a car. yellow tops are great, if you have it isolated for the system, but other than that, the red is a better all around battery

yeah, i'm bummed about having to miss the meet but when it's a matter of me against the army, i'm gonna lose.

[traitorhound]

yea so i went to the local audio shop today and told the guys there some stuff that i wanted to do. . .they recommended me to get a treo SS (i figured since they are big on that and treo is probably the best stuff they carry) but it seemed that he was knocking on the the PA amp that i wanted and said that it would only realistically only give out 700 at most. . .i wouldnt' know never hearing it. . .. .but are they that overinflated?

[blue LEDz]

there was a guy on carsound, that is a very reputable member, that bench tested the same amp i have, and showed it put out about 2250 watts, and it's rated at 2300 watts. in a review from a magazine it was tested right about the same also. all car audio shops bash pretty much every brand they don't sell the owner of the shop where i used to get my car metered for testing talked **** when he first saw my MOFO 15 and A1700DB amp. then i hit a 147.2, and he shut the **** up, and left the shop my friend's an installer there, and he said the owner was pissed he was even more pissed when on his same meter again i hit a 151.2. that's louder than his personal competition vehicle that has a pair of 15's only doing about 148