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XelderX's '88 323 Wagon

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    #61
    Just trying to knock out a few small issues...

    Anyone have any experience with the temp sending unit for the water temp gauge not working correctly. My gauge never moves from "cold" I've got the single wire sender plugged in. I'm 75% sure the sender is from the 323, but it could have been from a 1.6L Miata. Do I need to get the one for the Capri?

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      #62
      I know that with the Protege/Escort the sender has to match the gauge. I don't know anything specifically about the 323/Capri combo, but it might be the same.

      Do you know that your thermostat is working?
      1990 Protege 4WD
      GT-X BP26 swap [AT->MT]|Cup holder cut to fit|Synthetic gear oil|Synthetic brake fluid|Corksport SS brake/clutch lines|Mazdaspeed HV oil pump|GT-X front STB|Corksport type I rear STB|Matching full-size spare wheel|Homebrew Brass shifter bushing|Speed Source brass shifter cable bushings|EDM headlights/corners|FMIC|EDM cabin vents

      1 3 5
      ├┼┤
      2 4 R


      Seeking: Canadian 4WD seatbelts.

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        #63
        Originally posted by me109 View Post
        I know that with the Protege/Escort the sender has to match the gauge. I don't know anything specifically about the 323/Capri combo, but it might be the same.

        Do you know that your thermostat is working?

        I may end up just putting in an aftermarket gauge, but if I can get the stock one working I'll be much happier. The thermostat is fine. The car warms up and runs fine. Top radiator hose gets hot. No overheating issues, just no functional temp gauge. I pulled the connector off the sender earlier to see if the gauge would spike hot like it did on the SOHC and it didn't move.

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          #64
          Could it be the correct sender and it's just not working?
          1990 Protege 4WD
          GT-X BP26 swap [AT->MT]|Cup holder cut to fit|Synthetic gear oil|Synthetic brake fluid|Corksport SS brake/clutch lines|Mazdaspeed HV oil pump|GT-X front STB|Corksport type I rear STB|Matching full-size spare wheel|Homebrew Brass shifter bushing|Speed Source brass shifter cable bushings|EDM headlights/corners|FMIC|EDM cabin vents

          1 3 5
          ├┼┤
          2 4 R


          Seeking: Canadian 4WD seatbelts.

          Comment


            #65
            Originally posted by me109 View Post
            Could it be the correct sender and it's just not working?
            It's possible. I need to get a copy of the FSM for the BF 323 so I can see what the diagnostic test is for the temp sender.

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              #66
              oh i never meant anytime soon man, i want you to hold onto her as long as you can lol.

              as for the gauge not working its definitely the temp sensor, but with not knowing which one is one there could be the issue lol, you have to use the sensor specific to the gauge cluster afaik.

              Even my BP swapped 323 needed the b6 sensor for it to work (unless the bp one was bad, who knows lol)
              -Jack

              ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

              91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
              http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

              01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

              91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
              http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

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                #67
                Originally posted by XelderX View Post
                I pulled the connector off the sender earlier to see if the gauge would spike hot like it did on the SOHC and it didn't move.
                Did you try ground it to see if the gauge would move??? if you go from open to ground the gauge should move.. if it doesn't fix your wiring to the gauge first..]

                The only tests for sending units is an ohms test at messured temps... its a very useless test to do...

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                  #68
                  Originally posted by crazycanadian View Post
                  Did you try ground it to see if the gauge would move??? if you go from open to ground the gauge should move.. if it doesn't fix your wiring to the gauge first..]

                  The only tests for sending units is an ohms test at messured temps... its a very useless test to do...

                  I'll try grounding it tomorrow. I skipped over that as I was working on adjusting my timing while goofing with the temp sender. I need to stop doing so many things at once.

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                    #69
                    Iirc I have a b6d/t temp sensor with a sohc dash and it works fine. Also I might have a seatbelt.
                    12 cbr250r: daily ride
                    01 saab 9-3: daily
                    98 gsxr 1100: for sale
                    93L: money pit/ space waster
                    92GL: low and slow beater
                    90?: the rust free shell
                    89LX: swapping to rust free shell
                    89L: for sale
                    89L: parts
                    87 conquest: dohc 4g64 swap underway
                    76+80 vw dashers: for sale

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                      #70
                      Originally posted by shorestiva View Post
                      Iirc I have a b6d/t temp sensor with a sohc dash and it works fine. Also I might have a seatbelt.

                      I'm going to mess with it a little more tomorrow. I got my seatbelt working, thanks.

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                        #71
                        I had a pretty productive afternoon. I replaced the O2 sensor just for piece of mind and then I started tracing some wires to figure out why the temp gauge doesn't work. I figured out where the connection for it between the engine harness and chassis harness was. I was expecting it to route along with the main harness to the ECU, but temp gauge and coolant temp sensor both route through the harness near the airbox. I new I had two wires over there in a connector that I hadn't traced anywhere yet, but the harness came from an automatic car and I was assuming they were something on the trans since most everything worked without them being plugged into anything. 5 minutes with the multimeter and everything is much better now. The temp gauge is functional and she is running much better now that the ECU knows what the coolant temp is.

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                          #72
                          Interesting thing happened last night.

                          I was driving home on the highway about 70 mph and the engine just quit. Like it lost fire. I got over in the emergency lane and it would not crank back. I couldn't find anything in the engine bay that looked out of sorts. I figured the distributor or the coil might have crapped out all of sudden. I get it towed back to the house and wait till today to see what is going on. I go out this afternoon and the damn thing just cranks back up like nothing is wrong. I can't find anything wrong with it.

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                            #73
                            wow that's really weird :S was there any power after you pulled over? or was it cranking but not catching?
                            -Jack

                            ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

                            91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
                            http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

                            01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

                            91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
                            http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

                            Comment


                              #74
                              hot electronics??? loose spade terminal on the starter??
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                              1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                              I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                              he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                                #75
                                The starter worked fine. The motor would turn over, but it wouldn't fire. I didn't have any tools with me to check anything on the spot. It was around 2am and 20 degrees outside so by the time I got it home I didn't want to mess with it. I drove the car over 250 miles straight a few days ago and it ran perfectly so I'm not suspecting it's an issue with mileage or something getting overheated.

                                I'm wondering if the fuel pump stopped working then somehow fixed itself. The car seemed to cut off too abruptly for it to have been a fuel pressure issue, but who knows.

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